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It appears the strut rod itself is bending causing the illusion that the lower control arm is bending. The rubber strut rod bushing is only exasperating the issue.

I did the DIY Roller Spring Perch Kit. If I had to do it over again, I'd of just purchased them already done. Was a major PITA.

A-pillar trim?

You can spend a lot of money on them, but IMO unless you are racing, then stock is more than adequate. I put new organic linings on the back of my car when I bought it almost 22 ago and they still have over half the life left in them. The front disc brakes are vastly more important to get...

Check the hood hinge springs to see if it had a Ram-Air hood.

I have a set in the garage. Let me know if you would like some pictures.

I put the trim over my pedal pads because I got tired of the pads slipping off.

I made 278hp and 311ft/lb of torque at the wheels with my Aussie headed combo. I had some 2.19" intake valves in it. The valves helped on the low lift flow but didn't help much at all on the med to high lift flow. I did some pocket porting but there was not much metal to remove in the ports...

Isn't that a DynoJet banner in the background?

I would be careful with anything radical for your car. My buddy installed this Summit cam years ago, "SUM-3601" into his 289ci 1968 Falcon with a T-5. It also has ported E7 heads, roller rockers, headers, 4v intake and Holley 600. It was pretty flat until 2k rpms, but when it built up steam...

Sad to hear. I liked Paul. We shared a few PMs and saw eye to eye on many things.

Often a small cordless impact driver would work well in trying to remove rusty bolts. The impact action is more likely to loosen any crud/rust and successfully extract a bolt. Lots of smaller taps are often better vs a single high torque removal action of a ratchet. Like said above...

You can still make 500ish horsepower using the stock 5/16" fuel line. I did it on my 1985 Mustang feeding a 408w. Made 432hp at the rear wheels.

I've run a few of the Chinese distributors on my Sun machine. They all have extremely lazy advance curves and the internals that do not lend themselves to be easily recurved. The ones with built in coils; the spark really starts getting weak past 4k rpm's. They will run an engine, but don't...

I have had it both ways. I have sold a 89 Mustang 5.0 LX to a deployed guy in the Navy, but he called me on the phone and we talked/discussed the deal. Then he sent me a certified check. If they are deployed, then they are in no hurry. I should know. I have also had a recent bad PayPal...

The CF blocker rings are not measurably lighter than the standard ones. A very thin portion of brass is machined off, and then the CF layer is glued in its place. Maybe a few grams difference, but nothing that would be able to be perceived if that rotating weight were the sole factor.

The correct way of thinking about Tremec transmissions (500/600's) is that that are "heavy duty" transmissions and not necessarily "high performance" transmissions. They are essentially a toploader with a 5th gear in a fancy case. They use the exact same brass blocker (synchronizer) rings as a...

Hanlon Motorsports can do almost anything with the Tremecs to include faceplating if you so desire. Their website is not that great but if you call, they are very friendly.

I figured I'd throw this up there. http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all

I had them in a car about 15 years ago. I did not like them. When you are traveling fast and the road gets bumpy, it can cause the car to feel like its going out of control as it will be undulating and bouncing all over the place. They are ok for cruising and their designed niche, but I like...