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That's a heavy wt oil unless you live in the desert. 10w30 or 10w40 syn. or dino oil should do trick.

Well if the bolt is rusted tight to the metal center spacer in side the LCA bushing, you are going to have one heck of a time pounding it out. Sometimes the only answer is get the torch out and do careful surgery

Hope its not a wipe cam lobe. Had a lifter collapsed on a newly rebuilt clever a few yrs back after a few hundred miles and it sounded more like a rod knock. Wiped ex lobe will kick back thru the carb under some load. Hope its none of these.

All have the same floor pattern (2pc.) They are just trying to sell what you already know you don't need

Good luck The one's most place's want to sell is not going work. You need to look close for the difference in the hook down

Made my own using same setup. 10 years still works fine

My fuel gauge readings would be way off at times, but so would oil and temp gauge at same time. The old mechanical constant voltage regulator was failing

460's from trucks or motorhomes are low torque engine and can go through a tank of gas faster than you can imagine. Good for rock climbing, not high speed performance.

Had a problem after I replaced PS hoses. Return hoses were always damp with fluid and year later they started splitting at the clamps. Google the SAE numbers on the hose and found the parts store gave me 3/8 gas line that doesn't play well with oils and biodiesel.

Not factory

If you lower the pump pressure there may be times the pump may go into bypass just when you don't expect it. Its just the way things were back then and everyone was happy to have PS.

you might need to change manual brake pedal to work with power booster. They mount different under the dash. Manual pedal has different leverage point than the power pedal

I have been running BFG 275/50/15 which is about worn out and I don't think there available anymore. A little to wide for 8" wide magnium 500 and flat road tread contact. so 295 might be worst. 235/60/15 on the front is as big as I can use. Rubs a little on the frame steering box bolt heads when...

Clevelands like a little more initial timing than what is normal like 16 to 18 degs, but the mechanical advances to much. So you have to weld the slot some and grind to what you need.

Great pics. Thems were the days when you could afford to take the whole family and feed them there, and everybody knew everybody. Last local event I went too, there where only few folks in the stands and I can see why. A family of 5 was a $100 and $5 hotdogs. To many big pockets to fill I guess...

Isn't the 12to1 ratio the one to have for a real upgrade?

Stock style starter will not fit on a 157t bell because it hits the pan rail on the clevelands

Its Just the way it was back then. Everybody just use to todays quick steering ratio. Piper correct about proper alignment for return to center and a also non bearing Idler arm.

Gas and silicone don't mix, they just don't get along together. There's a green paste just for that and I can't remember the name or even spell it if I did. Summit and Jegs or Edlebrock has it

Metal only for original, paper gasket added to make sure for better sealing. Its up to you to decide