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That's exactly what was happening in my car. I didn't see how bad the gasket was until puling the carb for replacement. The part of the gasket near the top-left bore in your photo was burned away completely on the bore side. New gasket (had to find on eBay) and 4360 carb from a '77 Lincoln and...

Just got this from the Marti Auto Works e-newsletter. I'm not trying for concours but tags add a special touch, for sure. The thing is... how do you know if a tag is missing (beyond the obvious) and what it should look like? How smart; the website has a book for just that, the Mustang &...

The curved cutouts are for the EGR channel, unique to '73. It's curious you had two gaskets. The spacer on my '73 351C q code was in bad shape and came off in pieces (and was nearly burned through over the EGR channel) but it once was a one piece gasket. I replaced it with a perfect fit NOS...

I just noticed you used a rocker switch rather than the cranky slide switch that would have been original. Brilliant choice.

Many thanks!

Mileage is 137k. My C6 slips in all gears, doesn't upshift under heavy throttle and RPMs at 60mph are over 3000rpm (3.25 rear). I'm not a racer -- the car is just for enjoyable top down cruising. Plain rebuilds, no shift kit enhancements, etc, run $2200-$3000 here. Does not include unforeseen...

No, no experience with United Carbs but I did recently need to replace my 4300D and found the folks at National Carburetors excellent to work with. Good luck.

I’m going to do the outlets in the ashtray but also the seat warmer controls.

Hello and welcome from Palm Springs! Nice car, and I agree on the "better in black" for the top.

Might be a little far for you but I used a guy who is now in Desert Hot Springs: J-A Custom ulpholstery, Jose Arellano, 760-3534-3502, jarellano591. Very conscientious and thorough and excellent service on the top tune-up.

Continuing my search, National Carburetors charges $299 for 4300D rebuild, and I've asked about repairing the fuel inlet. They also sell a rebuilt 4300D for $239. Might be the way to go.

Well, they're the same *except* for door panels for power windows have cutouts for the switches, not just a round hole for the crank.

I've replaced the motors for all the windows in my restoration, but yes, those very very old plastic clips that hold the switch bezel in place break from just looking at them. So far anyway, I've found once tightening them to the door panel, they stay in place "ok". Not great, but ok. I have...

I'm needing work done beyond a rebuild on my Holley 4300D and from recommendations here, contacted Riley's Rebuilds. She said they're focusing on only Edelbrock carburetors for the time being, and recommended I contact The Carburetor Shop instead. They're closed on Mondays so I sent an email...

That explains the difference in 71-72 and 73 motor mounts! Thanks. And you've highlighted my concern: even if I cover up the exhaust duct and outlet, it will still be getting exhaust (heat) there. Suggestions? Does that mean pulling the manifold? Right now the spread-to-square bore adapter...

I will confirm the second photo is for '73. I currently have mine apart for 4300D carb replacement -- still trying to find a way around the EGR (exhaust gas) channel. 71-72 looks like it would be covered by the carb, whereas the 73 arcs out past the normal edge of the carb.

As seen, the EGR plate is removed. The spread-to-square bore adapter does not cover the exhaust channel in the manifold. And putting the EGR plate on then the spacer leaves me with bolts too short to even reach the carb. This is fun

Another question: new carb has an electric choke so the two choke manifold vacuum ports aren't needed. Am thinking to put a sealed metal gasket under where it attaches to the manifold as the two taps coming off of it are not removable. The insulated one goes to the old choke and the other...

Removing the carb was easy. The four bolts holding it in place could have nearly been turned by hand. The photo shows primaries in front, secondaries in back. Notice the upper left -- it's quite, quite sooty. 1) Is that major cause for concern, and what might be the reason? Should that be...

I appreciate the "save the beast!" suggestions but I've been struggling with this carb since the day I got the car. No matter how it's adjusted, tends to return to a too rich mixture and the choke is problematic. Plus, it's been sloppily kludge-repaired by a PO or two (I'm assuming) for leaks...