Replacing the carb (4300D). I have questions.

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 14, 2019
Messages
552
Reaction score
165
Location
Coachella Valley (Palm Springs)
My Car
1973 Convertible, 351 4v CJ, C6, Mach 1 Decor options, power: steering, brakes and windows, a/c, Rally Pac gauges, Deluxe interior.
[url=https://ibb.co/ZVjjKXW][img]https://i.ibb.co/zrMMbxG/s-l1600-2.jpg[/img][/url]
Removing the carb was easy. The four bolts holding it in place could have nearly been turned by hand. The photo shows primaries in front, secondaries in back. Notice the upper left -- it's quite, quite sooty.
1) Is that major cause for concern, and what might be the reason? Should that be resolved before the new carb goes on?
2) I'm not attempting to recreate factory pollution controls so can I remove the EGR spacer plate? The external valve was hooked up to nothing.
 

Attachments

  • tempImageQr5bDI.png
    tempImageQr5bDI.png
    14.8 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Another question: new carb has an electric choke so the two choke manifold vacuum ports aren't needed. Am thinking to put a sealed metal gasket under where it attaches to the manifold as the two taps coming off of it are not removable. The insulated one goes to the old choke and the other goes nowhere.
 

Attachments

  • tempImageKLMD99.png
    tempImageKLMD99.png
    15.6 MB · Views: 0
As seen, the EGR plate is removed. The spread-to-square bore adapter does not cover the exhaust channel in the manifold. And putting the EGR plate on then the spacer leaves me with bolts too short to even reach the carb.

This is fun
 
Back
Top