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351C 4V w Motorcraft 4300D carb.  Runs rich and is prone to flooding although when warm starts like a dream.  I'm trying to adjust the carb to run leaner and I'm getting stuck at the first step:  From the 1973 Ford Car Shop Manual, pg 24-21-04: "...set the fuel mixture screws and limiter caps to...

Just saw that from researching in the Ford manual.  But you explained the "why" - thanks.  Clearly I didn't have one, but now that I think about I recall there was a very rusty one in the trunk when it first came home.

Replacing the driver's side seat track because it's very reluctant to catch anywhere but full forward or full backward.  Ordered Friday from CJP, arrived today (Monday)! The bolt(s) holding the track to the frame were too short by about 3/8", which is the roughly the same as the bushing between...

Sent a copy of an old one I had in .PDF -- Check your messages.

Got out and drove it. Had a blast today! 

Wood trim on the doors was part of any upgraded (Deluxe, Sports, Grande) interior.

Used the magic of the Mr Clean Magic Eraser to clean up chromed interior trim.  It's a *Miracle*! It has been mentioned before way back in 2016, but most recently I used it to clean bezels, interior knobs and knob surrounds:  lights, wiper, lighter and radio (so far).  I'd rate the before...

And now there is none of the jiggle in the ignition lock cylinder, i.e., "where the key goes" - hooray!  Will still eventually swap it out since doors don't unlock with the ignition key.  I've always been reluctant to lock a convertible because leaving it unlocked hopefully prevents someone...

Yes, heater, radio & blinkers all work fine. I was planning to change to LEDs so I started with replacing the printed circuit, followed by new IVR and then bulbs. How would I test if the IVR was making good connections? Seems garages not working would say “no”.  It screws into place on the...

Alrighty then, I replaced the switch.  Gauges still don't work.  With a new switch in place, the key movement is pretty firm, that is, no jiggle.  So there's no toying with the key to make gauges wake up.  Car starts, operates as expected through all the key positions. I did also replace all...

Today was "clean up on aisle 73":  While waiting on parts to arrive (dash LEDs) I dug into the extra wires under the dash the PO from before left behind. One went to a non-op power antenna.  The dead power antenna is still in place and given the extra wiring, I think it was PO-installed, not...

Following; similar need.  I'm in Palm Springs so our climate is similar and I was wondering if it was the heat or the lack of humidity, but any one of my seats in my convertible gives off a puff of orange-ish dust if you smack it with your hand (which I think is just nearly 50-year old foam...

CJPony's part number HW1543 has a scathing review.  If you ordered it, how was the part to install?  And, is the external part black or chrome?

Is it the ignition lock cylinder or the ignition switch that needs to be replaced?  Seems if jiggling the key into the just right position solves the problem, then it would be the lock cylinder, not the switch, but the lock cylinder has no electrics just a rod that goes to the switch.

I'm not using the headlight switch.  When that didn't work I went to testing each bulb by direct connect to a 9V battery, so the headlight switch and IVR are out of the equation entirely. From what I gather from the above, I should be testing the bulbs with 12v?  I still don't understand why...

I got LED replacements from superbrightleds.com as follows:  8 warm white for dash lighting, 1 red for Brakes warning light and 1 blue for Brights warning light.  New circuit board and regulator.  Little blue domes are in good shape so I'll keep them.  Keeping turn signals incandescent. Pulled...

I'll check hipo website - thanks Also, surprisingly, all my blue diffusers were in good shape, so I'm keeping them, too.

Man, oh man... I wish I could find this again.  Nothing comes up on a search, so I expect it was a forum pre-update article.

Working on the driver's rear quarter window, replacing inoperable power window and trashed quarter window seal (the one that meets the door window). Removing the p/w pancake motor wasn't as hard as expected, just tedious.  Turn-jiggle-slide-turn-jiggle-slide and repeat.  A tip:  the small side...

Excellent and thank you!  That explains the odd bracket there all by itself - lol. So, my can has come free from the bracket and the bracket is still attached to the inner fender.  Thing is... it has a horizontal orientation and the can would be on its side if mounted that way.  I'll look again...