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If you guys don't mind sharing your feedback once you have everything up and running, that would be great!

A manifold/header leak at that cylinder could also be the culprit.

You need to swap out the springs so the secondaries open sooner. That will definitely fix your issue.

I'm a big fan of upgrading to a more modern electronic regulator. But, pop off the original cover and swap it out onto the new regulator.

Another vote for the Redhead gear box. I swapped out my leaking box last year, along with a new pitman arm, idler arm, inner & outer tie rods and links. Pretty much everything steering related was tired and worn out. It was a night and day difference. Steering is tight and responsive. No...

It is possible to install the new panels without taking out the back glass. You can pull back the rubber enough to tuck in the extra material along the window line. You can use a flathead screwdriver or small putty knife to help pull back the rubber and tuck the material under the rubber

I keep getting notifications of people liking this post. I guess it still makes people chuckle 7 years later.

I was able to pull it up by manually altering the link. https://www.7173mustangs.com/images/71mustang_diagram.pdf

Does anyone have a copy of the 1971 Simple Wiring Diagram? The link to the simple diagram on the Wiki pulls up the full diagram.

First I've ever heard of this place. But that has to be the most valuable collection of rare 71s I've ever seen.

The coil is 0.8 ohms. No idea on the hours, but I have had it this way for the last 7 years without issue. Granted, I certainly don't daily drive the car, but it gets it's share of miles during the summer. It's pretty easy to lay on your back, unplug the tach, and simply bridge the plug with...

You can bypass the resistor wire by running a wire to the coil from the output of the tach. This will get you the full 12v needed and retain function of the stock tach. Because of the voltage increase, the stock tack will read ~200 rpm higher.

You might also check for manifold/header leaks where they seal up to the head.  That will definitely give you some back popping, especially upon deceleration.

According to Mustang by the Numbers, in 71 there were only 26 Grabber Lime Fastbacks with White Knit Vinyl Decor.  No way to know for sure, but I'd be willing to bet the majority of those were Mach 1s.

I think the fact that this car is NOT a Mach 1 makes it pretty unique and cool.  Based on the YouTube videos, it's probably not worth saving.  But if Trevynd had the means, it would be an awesome car to restore back to original.  Just sucks it wouldn't be worth a fraction of the cost it would...

Yeah, it's in really nice shape.  I purchased it used several years back, but never ended up installing it.  I went with a different manifold. I'm not certain on shipping costs, but I can't imagine it would be more than $50.  I think $250 shipped would be a fair price.

Both of my manifolds had leaks where gasket material had blown out.  I thought about swapping over to headers.  But as others have mentioned, I didn't want to deal with the prospect having to constantly retorque the header bolts.  Instead, I decided to keep the manifolds.  I had a machine shop...

HA, I think you have this backwards again.  Knock sensors are there to detect detonation and retard timing if detected.  For example, if your car calls for premium fuel and you put in 87 octane fuel, it may cause the car to detonate.  The knock sensor would detect this and retard timing as a result.

I think you might be looking at it backwards.  It is true that higher octane allows more timing advance.  I don't necessarily agree you should advance the timing just because you move from 87 to 93 octane.  Ideally you figure out the timing your engine is happy at and try to get it to run...