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Stick with steel or NiCop The pre-bent kits are okay, but you can do a lot with a 25’ coil, some skill, a bender and a double flaring tool. The “slot machine” type flaring tools are superior to the old type. Stainless is a pain to work with, so much so that I believe it should be avoided...

You could go see if a local junior college has a manual machining course…

Looks like a good excuse to buy a vertical milling machine and some tooling.

Normal aftermarket hood. They have too much crown. Can be flattened but it is best done before paint, not after.

1) how old is the battery in your meter? 2) what condition is your meter in? 3) want to blow money on a new meter?

Nice! That is the exact same way I did mine.

Doh! At least you didn’t catch it on fire. New fuel / vapor lines are kind of a pain to thread in. Maybe get them on hand?

Of all the repo products the tail lights are good. Deeper red, not faded and the reflector inserts are actually reflective. I am not against restoring the old ones, but wanted to suggest the idea of new.

This past weekend I intended to go to the Mustang Steve “Bash” in Bakersfield CA. Things came up at work that squashed that, but I was able to make a cannonball run to the Chico Concurs show in my 67’ Toyota Stout on Saturday. A little over 300 miles round trip. My pickup is the “revival”...

I’d take a hard look at your tail panel where the light gaskets make contact. Honestly the tail panel is an “easy” job as the weld points are hidden by the tail extensions and rear bumper. Personally I’d replace the entire panel. I’ve done it on my 71. Get good lighting, clean everything so...

I’d go with your suspicion of the steering box, and the idler arm bushing. I thought Opentracker was making a roller idler for 71-73s

Just to be positive you are defining positive caster as the lower ball joint being forward and the upper ball joint being rearward?

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/tail-panel-dynacorn-vs-goodmark-vs.33746/

When did mine I used a 3/8” / 10mm belt sander with a 36 grit belt. Nice thing about that method is you don’t end up with holes in your good metal from the pilot of the spot weld drill. You just grind away at the spot weld on the tail panel side of whatever it is sandwiched with. As you are...

Whatever your choice is get samples first.

Rubber Moog or go with some sort of spherical / ball joint

It’s Monday. Maybe call Eastwood to see what they are willing to divulge. The iso rating is a weight to my understanding. You would still want to get 68 in a synthetic oil, for compressors.

You could buy an Opentracker LCA kit that converts it to a heim style joint

Scroll down to post 87 https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/eastwood-qst-30-60-air-compressor.371397/page-5

Check with Sonnax. Trans parts Warehouse in Redding CA might be a good retailer to work with.