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@jscott curious if the noise has been sorted out?

That looks identical to one of the Innova models....I have the Innova Pro and really like it. I'm thinking this is the same piece as the HF light you're considering. https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3568-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=sr_1_5?c=ts&s=automotive&sr=1-5&ts_id=15707511

I've seen the studs for sale a few different times. Here's a set from Speedmaster....not sure I'd trust anything from them, but in a pinch, they'd get you back on the road. I'm pretty sure I've seen them from another supplier...I should have the PN written down at home. The guide pieces are...

I picked up a rebuilt OEM size booster from Rock Auto a few weeks ago. I would guess they're sold out again, but they had them for a couple of weeks, at least.

Was the wheel returning to center prior to the install? Do you know what the alignment specs were prior to the install?

Your alignment numbers look good. Seems to have plenty of positive caster. What is the history on your steering box? Has the Sector Shaft Preload been adjusted, is it rebuilt, etc ? I recently rebuilt my front end and wasn't happy with the return to center (RtC) with +3 caster. The RtC...

Mine is an early 72 and doesn't have the seatbelt light.

What was causing the slow cranking?

Is the Red/yellow hash the power to Idle Stop Solenoid? If yes, I'm using that lead to power the Duraspark-I ignition.

There have been a couple of comments that the factory coil power lead is unsuitable to power an electric choke. For the sake of understanding, why is that so? I understand it's a resistor wire...which means it will provide a reduced voltage....probably around 9 volts. My understanding of...

An internet search says the ignition coil draws 3-4 amps. I measured the choke coil and it's drawing 1-2A.

The + coil terminal is what I'm asking about (power rating). When I switched over to Durspark I, that terminal was left unused. The choke coil calls for 10A. I would think an ignition coil would draw somewhere around there. I no longer have the factory tach in that circuit....went with a...

The schematic I looked at showed a yellow wire at the ignition switch. That wire traced back to a fusible link and then to the battery pole of the starter relay. Did I interpret the schematic incorrectly? Edit: Here's the diagram I'm referring to. The question I have is, what is the OEM +...

I'm looking for the power rating for the circuit that powers the positive coil terminal. I looked through the schematics and it appears the power is supplied from the battery, to the starter relay, through the heavy yellow lead, up to the start switch connector. The yellow lead is protected by...

There's an episode of Engine Masters where they tested some different fans. This looks a lot like the plastic/composite one they tested. This style had the 2nd largest loss of power (25hp) and a standard-duty fan clutch had the least (15hp). They tested something pretty close to our OEM flex...

My OEM flex fan let go back in about 1993. I was pretty lucky...all it did was put a couple of pinholes in the radiator core.

I would say the Truetrac would be a very good choice for your application. The Trac Lok is fine, but you have to mess with friction modifier and the clutch plates will wear out, eventually. Here's a good description of the 3 major types of limited slip differentials...

The adapter that came with the Cardone distributor is sized to the housing. It fits loose on OEM duraspark. I'm confident the size is intentional. I'm not a fan of the chinese knock-offs, but it was an easy way to get a 10L advance plate. One thing I like is how easy the advance plate comes...

4-speed M Code car, nice! No help from me on what stripes it came with.

I had a similar experience with a Cardone brand Duraspark distributor. The distributor housing, where the cap fits, is slightly larger OD as compared to an OEM Duraspark. The adapter ring (for the large diameter cap) from my OEM duraspark would not fit the Cardone, nor would a small diameter...