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I currently have Flowmaster 40s on mine, and am considering long pipe headers. I'm interested in how that will go for you!

The brake lines in my 73 have lived all their lives in Phoenix, and they're doing fine, as well as the rubber connecting hoses at the front brakes. I say leave the metal! My Master Cyl had an unbelievable amount of sludge that wore out the piston, not long after I started driving. (My car sat...

Hello and welcome from Phoenix! Yea, try to keep the original body metal. Pretty sure that could be massaged back into shape..

Welcome to the group, from Phoenix!

Welcome from Arizona!

It MAY have been, although i don't know why. I bought the car with this on it. The Extension piece bolts onto an intake manifold bolt. It is what it is, and if someone wants it, I have it. I removed my AC, so I don't need the parts.

Yes, I have the pulley and bracket, along with the compressor mount. Here is a recent photo I took for you. If you still want them I'll send them out for $125.00 shipping included, to your Seattle address.

I also had to remind them of Carl Kolchak's '66 Yellow Mustang, from "The Night Stalker" TV series 1974-1975.

My Speedo cable broke, so in replacing it, I needed to remove the instrument cluster, (because I'm not as agile as I once was under the dash) to disconnect the old , and connect the new. While I had the plastic faceplate out, I realized it was time to spruce that up too. While the chrome was in...

That is one great, solid looking project car. Should be a fun resto! I like the color too!

So sorry this happened. At one time I owned a 1961 Cadillac hearse in which I got the entire front clip smashed. I had regular insurance, and they didn't know how to handle it, other than to total the car. So, I bought it back, and did the repairs myself, except for the frame tweaking and paint...

Really hope to see you there!

Looks GREAT! Sometimes low-tech and elbow grease pays off pretty well.

It looks like you're well on your way to a fun car. Congrats!

I don't know how far back you're going on this thread, but I ,may have responded before: Arizona car, 1973 Mach-1, Rebuilt Original 351 Cleveland engine and original C-6 trans, 3:00 rear end, and Trac-Loc, All original body panels, Interior is restored.

Welcome, From Phoenix, Arizona!!

I have that SAME vibration, but noticeable when driving over 2000 RPM. I have changed/updated everything that's been mentioned. Still- Thrummmm- Thrummmmm- Thrummmmm- Thruuuuummm. The only thing that I haven't done it to replace the rear tranny seal. I also have a leak there.

Just sayin'. If you currently have your radio/unit connected to two "really good" rear speakers, you need to have either a second stereo output on your unit, or simply splice into each of those speaker lines running to the rear to get sounds up front. But what I'm getting at is; I've faced this...

This might be a good time to repost the fact that I found a second build sheet under my carpet and sound pads, for a '73 Mach-1 in med metallic blue, 3 speed manual trans, and med blue vinyl interior. If you're in need, this could be yours.

Just a thought from a friend of mine. Any of these simple "kill-switch" ideas can be improved upon, by not using a switch at all, but installing a spade fuse socket instead. Park the car, take the fuse. It won't start, unless they happen to have a fuse on them.