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I continue to part out the 71 vert. Just pulled the quarter window roll up window parts 100% complete and working. The only thing in the pictures not shipped to you is the glass so shipping cost will stay reasonable. (unless you need them.) $500.00 OBO plus approximately $35.00 shipping...

Like all of them, working switch with broken knob.

It should be as the cowl is surprisingly rust free. ( It is not shaped like a hood )

I literally just sold it! Sorry. I have another one that is on the rougher side. Black plastic is faded and the mirror is water damaged. Other than that it is perfect.

The ones with the speaker holes were originally red. They were poorly painted black but I think that saved the plastic. The others were black and have faded to dark grey. Those are starting to get crumbly but would be OK until a better set was found or the repops get better and cheaper Paul

Update: Rear sway bar and staggered shock set up has a new home. Sold locally and got to meet a fellow member. That was fun! Also sold the 3.25 locking rear complete axel that I did not plan on selling. Managed to horse it into the back of his SUV. THANKS FOR ALL OF THE RESPONSES! Paul

The ones that do not have speaker holes are not real bad but there are scratches where they are flakey. The ones with the speaker holes of course are mutch better. They did a real nice job with the holes. Paul

I agree! We always used the 71 or 72 frame mounts and then use the readily available and cheap old style motor mounts. It is getting harder to find those though. I have 2 sets. 1 from a 73 H code Mustang. The other is from a 73 Q code Torino. They look almost identical. I was trying to...

$500.00 for the hood. $1500.00 for everthing including the hood. All of my collected parts along with a clean title in my name. Includes numbers matching c6. No engine or rear-end. Sorry, but you must pick up the hood in person. Thanks!

Sorry, no underwood light.

Here is a pick of the window cranks.

The hood needs a bath but is absolutely rust free. Here are some pictures.

Sorry, do not have those. Tried to very carefully remove the warning light and it just crumbled to dust.

I have a complete 71 convertible for parts. Currently I have sold nothing. I also have some doubles of many things. Let me know what you need and I will pull it and send it your way - all reasonable offers will be accepted with shipping at actual cost. I will send pictures first to make...

We have an October 70 built M code convertible. It has (had) this rear dash edge molding but it was just crumbles. Also has the rear of fenders, rear of hood plastic chrome moldings. The Marti report says it came with front and rear bumper guards. I would love to find those but I haven't...

This modified plate eliminates the cold start bypass function. Removing the brass part can also be a pain in the butt. This causes a 351c to take forever to warm up and idle nicely. Pair this with blocking the heat passage under the intake and you end up with a very poorly manered 351c...

What we do to fix this issue is to install a short section of pipe that fits into the brass restrictor in the block. Thin wall .75 exterior diameter aluminum tube is a nice interference fit and because it bottoms out below the brass restrictions it can't fall out. It sticks up .25 inch or so...

For what is worth we just take a piece of aluminum thin wall pipe and insert it through the brass factory bypass plate. This simply makes the hole smaller to better match a Windsor style t-stats while still keeping the bypass function when starting cold. The inserted pipe is cut just long...