Axel seal removal

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I am pretty sure originals. Never leaked. Had to pull the axels since the rear end was shot (almost 25 degrees of play). The fluid may have been original as well. Was black as coal and smelled very burnt. I will swing by parts store tomorrow and borrow the slide hammer. Those suckers are in there good.

 
You can try and break them with a chisel and a hammer. Be careful to point the chisel towards the center of the housing so you don't scratch the surface of the opening. You want that surface clean with no scratches so that it sits tight against the new seal.

 
I was going to suggest you get one of the pullers at the parts store should pop right out then.

Be sure and clean the housing very good like cleaning a rifle. Use long rod, broom handle or something with rag / towels attached. Get all the metal shavings out. That rear must have been screaming with 25 deg. slop.

 
It was crazy loud and clunky too. Thanks for the broom handle tip on cleaning the housing. I was wondering how to get it all cleaned out good.

Couple other questions....

On a 73 H code what is the correct color for the third member?

What should I use for lube when installing the new seals?

What should I use to seal the third member when I re-install it? Gasket? RTV? Gasket and RTV?

What oil and friction modifier (how much) should I use when putting it back in? Will be 3.70 gears with a new Traclok.

I am having a local axel shop remove the old bearing and install the new ones, don't trust myself with a torch getting them off and don't have a press to put them back on.

 
I think the pumpkin color is "Red Oxide Primer".

I'm a Permatex No.2 guy with a thin coat with gasket. "The Right Stuff" with no gasket may be viable also

but it's expensive.

Rule of thumb is coat seals with whatever lube they are used in.

I wish you could have checked the axle flanges for "Run Out". There have been cases where incompetent

shops have bent the axle flange pressing on the new bearing sleeve.

Back when my machinist would cut through the bearing retainer 95% with a zip disc then pop it with a chisel

and the retainer and bearing almost fell off in the press.

I will have no choice for my T5 rebuild will use "The Right Stuff"

I'm sure some "experts" will chime in shortly.

Paul

EDIT: IMO You will find RTV over there next to the tampons.

 
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The red oxide primer is correct for the center section. You should be able to find pictures on the net. Do use a gasket with RTV. No gasket moves the position slightly. I would also put RTV around the outer part of the seal going in and like previous post use the rear grease to lube seal and the shaft. The friction modifier comes pre measured if you buy at the Ford dealer.

There is nothing like the smell of burnt rear end grease. I bet your wife loves it.

If you want to be able to check your axles for twist over time. You can mask off a line down the axle and spray with light colored paint. Then when you pull it out next time you can tell if it is twisting. All broke axles I have had were like flush with the axle gear.

 
Came out no problem with slide hammer. Thanks for the suggestion on cleaning the a el tubes David. The rag on a broom handle worked great. Scooping the crap out of the bottom of the housing was nasty. Like tar almost. Got it cleaned up and new axel seals set. Just need the diff back from rebuilder and get the. Ew bearing pressed onto the axels next week.

 
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