that kit is designed for home install.
no welding but you need the proper clamps that hold each section.
you may need a pipe expander tool for 2"-3" expansion.
what you do is mock up the kit off the car make sure the mufflers are level, mark the joints with a line so when you take them apart you can line them up the same way. it can help to mock up the front section on the car, H pipe, intermediary, and mufflers.
after your happy with the mock up you need Tail pipe sealant.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80335-Muffler-Tailpipe-Sealer/dp/B000BOAZM8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438060280&sr=8-3&keywords=tail+pipe+sealant
get a couple of tubes, say 2-4 of them just in case.
take the H pipe and get the 2 intermediary tubes ready, smear a nice frosting 360 around the Intermediary tubes that go into the H pipe.
put them in and line up the marks you made you may need to smash the entire thing on the garage floor to fully seat them into the H pipe, (do one at a time) when seated with the marks lined up instal the U bolts and clamps torque to around 10-15 ft pounds you just want enough to hold the pipes so they are not loose. the sealant will ooze out, clean up as needed.
make sure the H and inter pipes are tight but do not over tighten as you will Oval the pipes and cause exhaust leaks.
next install the mufflers the centered outputs go to the tailpipes the offset input goes to the intermediary pipes.
the offsets go in towards the drive shaft. again coat the end of the inter pipes with the sealant. line up on your marks and make sure the mufflers are level. install U bolts and clamps.
now put the large 5 piece unit under the car and using a jack get it lined up. Take the sealant and cake batter the exhaust manifolds on the coned part. get the exhaust pipes into the motor exhaust manifolds and install the brass nuts on the exhaust studs with the special clamps on the pipes but leave it very loose for the moment.
jack up the pipes and get the ends of the mufflers into the rear rubber supports, once the ends are supported, get the tail pipes and again coat the tail pipes with sealant get them into the rear outputs of the mufflers (centered) and start to fit them around all the brake hoses and the shocks so nothing hits, you now have to juggle the left and right tailpipes and the front clamps by the manifolds.
once you get the tailpipes where you want them, put the U bolts on the tailpipe rubber supports and check fit to the rear valance.
(dual exhaust needs a dual cutout valance.)
now basically you get the tail pipes locked down by the fuel tank and then you tighten the muffler u bolts and then the H pipe down.
here is where trouble occurs; converting a H code 2V car to a 4V duel exhaust.
the 2V cars are missing 2 nuts above the shock mounts for the drivers side muffler support bracket and they are missing the drivers side tailpipe support bracket. this is because from the factory they only had one muffler and one tailpipe. so you need some parts from a donor car or you need to fabricate some brackets to support the exhaust.
its not hard but it is a couple hours of labor under the car. i've done it a couple times. i get better each time.
the tricks are:
* Pipe expander tool so you can open up some tolerance on the pipes and mufflers to be able to shift position for alignment.
* do not over tighten the U bolts, you will crush the pipes into ovals and they will leak.
* Tail pipe sealant.
Here is what is cool about this type of U bolt held exhaust. if you need to remove the exhaust for transmission repair or floor pans, etc you can take it apart easy, with a welded exhaust you may need to cut it off.
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The reproduction tailpipe ends are garbage and do not fit correctly out of the packaging.
originally ford also made a left and a right version.
here you need to get creative. I chopped my band holders off the reproduction tailpipe ends and then i cut about 2 inches off the end, and cut new slits into the tailpipe ends. i then fit the chopped band holders over the new section of tailpipe and installed onto the exhaust, this allows the tailpipes to sit in like original factory and with the cut bands you can now make a left and right version. Position the bands so that the screw top is facing the fuel tank, this prevents puncture in case of collision(why ford made the left and right originally).
Tada a fun project.
