Front Rubber Bumper

[c9zx]

DJ, I'l try to write it up tomorrow. Chuck

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

need a front rubber bumper in good condition for 71-72 stang,Thanks Whisnane

Motor City's offer is a fair one in my opinion. Restoration of this piece is not for the faint of heart, I just did one. If you want to know what it takes let me know and I'll describe the somewhat lengthy and unforgiving process.

Chuck

Hi Chuck, How bout doing a right up on the restoration process. I didn't find any online, so it would be cool to see how you can eliminate the swirl marks.

Thanks,

DJ

Hi... if i read correctly you´re talking about the possibility of restoring a (this particular yellow one) rubber bumper?

Well if it is the case i asure you not only you CAN do it but it came out perfect.

I think i have some before/after pics of my bumper... it was as all which hasn´t been involved in big accidents, pretty decent but with dent all over...

Well... the dents are no big deal no matter how deep they are... Pitty my technical english for materials and stuff is horrible but i´m gonna try to explain something quick over here...

Once you have the bumper sanded to the rubber (the only process i found to take the old paints off was a lot of sanding... i used an orbital sand machine) you have to start by using a plastic adherent product.. Usually is like a primer with the texture of milk

You CAN´T use bondo at all because of the difference of flexibility... so.. every scratch is going to be filled with primer.. I use PPG products and the have a bunch of different kind of primers.. i usually use one that is for filling... As you want scratches to get filled, you are going to do the primmer aplication over and over... 3 or 4 layers minimun and keep in mind each layer has to be dry to go for the next one... If you sand this primer and you still can see some dents, repeat the process... eventually dents are going to get filled...

VERY IMPORTANT: ALL THE PROCESS HAS TO BE DONE USING A PRODUCT YOU MIX WITH THE PRIMMER OR THE PAINT THAT FLEXIBILIZE THE PRODUCTS YOU ARE USING TO MACH THE RUBBER...

Sorry i cant tell you the exact names... i´m from a spanish speaking country!

So... the primmer usually works not only as a filler but the base behing your final paint so, primmer and sanding untill the dents are gone... you can sand the primmer up to 600 grain or even 800 and then, the bumper is ready to paint...

If you are painting with polyester base + clear coat (usual process for metal colours), the felixibilize stuff is going to be just on the coat as the polyester base has no rigidity itself...

If you´re using PU paint, apply the product to the PU...

ALWAYS FLEXIBILICE EACH LAYER!

Well.. i hope it helps... i´m sure someone can add information to it too...

My front bumper had multiple cracks, dents and an enormous ammount of old paintings one on top of the other, all cracked etc... the hole restoration process took me about 5 hours work... not hard at all...

Good luck!

 

[c9zx]

DJ, I'l try to write it up tomorrow. Chuck

Sorry about the wait, too much going on here. I make no claim to be an expert at body work,or anything else for that matter.What I'm describing is the repair of relatively minor damage (no big chunks missing). The bumper must be sanded to bare urethane,DO NOT USE PAINT STRIPPER OF ANY KIND. I used a DA with 100 grit peel and stick, keep it moving. Do not linger in one spot too long. If you don't have a DA, use a 3M rubber sanding block. If you have long narrow cracks you will need to "Vee" them out (I used a Dremel tool with the miniature cut off wheel). Nicks and gouges need to be free of loose small pieces. Clean everything with wax and grease remover then wipe again with clean dry cloth. The repair material used is an inexpensive alternative to the commercial 3M material and pricey special "gun". It is BONDO company (now owned by 3M) but it is not bondo. It is PN 280, Bumper Repair Kit. It is flexible 2 part epoxy in a plastic syringe, about $7.00. It is only about an ounce and a half, so only mix what you need at the time. It cures in an hour. Wet sand with 180 or 220 on the block. When you are satisfied that you have repaired all the damage clean everything again and apply the primer. The primer is the key part of this repair. I used Sherwin Williams Spectra Prime with "Ure-flex". When dry, apply a tracer coat. Sand with 320 or 400 on the block. If you find you have missed something that a second coat of primer will not take care of, use more epoxy and repeat process. When satisfied, apply final primer coat. Apply compatible top coat. I used base clear. Final "color sand", compound and polish. I used the 3M series of finishing products. I hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Chuck

 

[david020278]

On my restauration i am not happy with the painted uretan. It is to fragile for me.

I sandet the bumper, use a primer and than i coating the bumper with glass fiber, my painter finish the work with filler and a nice paint work. Now i have a robust hard bumper that looks like the rubber bumper.

 

[71stang]

IS there not an aftermarket urethane bumper manufactured.

May be we found a new business.

 

[72HCODE]

the rubber on these bumpers can be fixed no problem.

the thing that you must watch out for on these bumpers is the metal structure underneath.

the bumpers would crack over time and water would sit in between the rubber and the metal under structure and eventually the metal would disappear and you would be left with just the rubber cover.

so you need to make sure the metal inside the rubber isnt swiss cheese. once thats done you can use the bumper repair expoxy and some high build primer with flex in it and go to town.

 

[Qcode351mach]

IS there not an aftermarket urethane bumper manufactured.

May be we found a new business.

Not urethane but frt & rear fiberglass are available

http://www.artfiberglass.com/auto/ford/mustang/7173mustang.html

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

DJ, I'l try to write it up tomorrow. Chuck

Sorry about the wait, too much going on here. I make no claim to be an expert at body work,or anything else for that matter.What I'm describing is the repair of relatively minor damage (no big chunks missing). The bumper must be sanded to bare urethane,DO NOT USE PAINT STRIPPER OF ANY KIND. I used a DA with 100 grit peel and stick, keep it moving. Do not linger in one spot too long. If you don't have a DA, use a 3M rubber sanding block. If you have long narrow cracks you will need to "Vee" them out (I used a Dremel tool with the miniature cut off wheel). Nicks and gouges need to be free of loose small pieces. Clean everything with wax and grease remover then wipe again with clean dry cloth. The repair material used is an inexpensive alternative to the commercial 3M material and pricey special "gun". It is BONDO company (now owned by 3M) but it is not bondo. It is PN 280, Bumper Repair Kit. It is flexible 2 part epoxy in a plastic syringe, about $7.00. It is only about an ounce and a half, so only mix what you need at the time. It cures in an hour. Wet sand with 180 or 220 on the block. When you are satisfied that you have repaired all the damage clean everything again and apply the primer. The primer is the key part of this repair. I used Sherwin Williams Spectra Prime with "Ure-flex". When dry, apply a tracer coat. Sand with 320 or 400 on the block. If you find you have missed something that a second coat of primer will not take care of, use more epoxy and repeat process. When satisfied, apply final primer coat. Apply compatible top coat. I used base clear. Final "color sand", compound and polish. I used the 3M series of finishing products. I hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Chuck

Hey Chuck, thanks for the right up! I used the same product, but a buddy of mine said it won't work and that the swirls will come back out or reappear. I did the whole process as described and DA it with 1500, Shot the sealer primer and used Sherwin Williams flex clear. Hopefully this will be enough and the swirls will not come back. Turned out smooth as a baby's behind and very promising! Thanks again, DJ

 

[whitesoc]

Since there were 9383 sprints made in 72 and they all had the rubber bumper you would think they might be plentiful. But ask yourself when was the last time you saw a 72 sprint Mustang in any body style?

http://www.1972mustangsprint.com

I saw one about two summers ago at the show at the Ford plant in Oakville Ont...only difference was it had a Canadian flag on the rear quarter instead of US

 

[c9zx]

DJ, I'l try to write it up tomorrow. Chuck

Sorry about the wait, too much going on here. I make no claim to be an expert at body work,or anything else for that matter.What I'm describing is the repair of relatively minor damage (no big chunks missing). The bumper must be sanded to bare urethane,DO NOT USE PAINT STRIPPER OF ANY KIND. I used a DA with 100 grit peel and stick, keep it moving. Do not linger in one spot too long. If you don't have a DA, use a 3M rubber sanding block. If you have long narrow cracks you will need to "Vee" them out (I used a Dremel tool with the miniature cut off wheel). Nicks and gouges need to be free of loose small pieces. Clean everything with wax and grease remover then wipe again with clean dry cloth. The repair material used is an inexpensive alternative to the commercial 3M material and pricey special "gun". It is BONDO company (now owned by 3M) but it is not bondo. It is PN 280, Bumper Repair Kit. It is flexible 2 part epoxy in a plastic syringe, about $7.00. It is only about an ounce and a half, so only mix what you need at the time. It cures in an hour. Wet sand with 180 or 220 on the block. When you are satisfied that you have repaired all the damage clean everything again and apply the primer. The primer is the key part of this repair. I used Sherwin Williams Spectra Prime with "Ure-flex". When dry, apply a tracer coat. Sand with 320 or 400 on the block. If you find you have missed something that a second coat of primer will not take care of, use more epoxy and repeat process. When satisfied, apply final primer coat. Apply compatible top coat. I used base clear. Final "color sand", compound and polish. I used the 3M series of finishing products. I hope this helps.

Good Luck,

Chuck

Hey Chuck, thanks for the right up! I used the same product, but a buddy of mine said it won't work and that the swirls will come back out or reappear. I did the whole process as described and DA it with 1500, Shot the sealer primer and used Sherwin Williams flex clear. Hopefully this will be enough and the swirls will not come back. Turned out smooth as a baby's behind and very promising! Thanks again, DJ

I'm glad it worked out for you. Chuck

 

[firesign73]

If you are still in need I have a 71-72 front urethane bumper still mounted on the original metal framework and also have the metal brackets that attach it to the framerails. Mike 740-617-2425

 

[OMS]

If you are still in need I have a 71-72 front urethane bumper still mounted on the original metal framework and also have the metal brackets that attach it to the framerails. Mike 740-617-2425

pm sent

Don

 

[cristobal33]

If you are still in need I have a 71-72 front urethane bumper still mounted on the original metal framework and also have the metal brackets that attach it to the framerails. Mike 740-617-2425

If you still have this please contact me.

Thanks

Cris

215-688-6448