rear axle seal

[Manu Mach1]

Hello everybody,

I received some parts from US. There is a seal I need to set, the one at the exit of the rear axle. How do I need to set it correctly in it's good position without damage it?

Do I need to use grease?

I order 2 seals in case of

Thanks for advice.

Manu

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

The picture you are showing is the front of the differential. The matching seal would be a pinion seal and the relationship between the ring and pinion gear is set with either solid washers or a crush washer. Now that you have taken the pinion nut off, getting the seal back in is only a small part of the problem. If you do not get the clearances right, the gears will wear out very, very rapidly.

I am not aware of any way to get the clearances right with the differential mounted in a 8" or 9" rear end.

The proper procedure from where you are would be to pull the wheels, pull the axles, remove the differential, then with the unit out of the car you can adjust pinion depth and backlash to the proper clearances.

Generally with used gears it is better to leave them alone as altering backlash or pinion depth will result in increased wear.

Here is a good link to understand the process

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html

 

[Manu Mach1]

The picture you are showing is the front of the differential. The matching seal would be a pinion seal and the relationship between the ring and pinion gear is set with either solid washers or a crush washer. Now that you have taken the pinion nut off, getting the seal back in is only a small part of the problem. If you do not get the clearances right, the gears will wear out very, very rapidly.

I am not aware of any way to get the clearances right with the differential mounted in a 8" or 9" rear end.

The proper procedure from where you are would be to pull the wheels, pull the axles, remove the differential, then with the unit out of the car you can adjust pinion depth and backlash to the proper clearances.

Generally with used gears it is better to leave them alone as altering backlash or pinion depth will result in increased wear.

Here is a good link to understand the process

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html

Sorry I was speaking about the front seal of the differential (green one on the picture). It's now removed, and just want to put the new one in place.

 

[73 MACH 1 MAN]

Like Jeff said there is a Crush Sleeve on the pinion shaft that is used to set the positioning of the shaft done during setting up the rear. If you just place a new seal in it the put the yoke back on and tighten the nut if you do not get it torqued exactly as it was it may be too loose or too tight and change the positioning of the pinion gear related to the ring gear and like Jeff said it'll wear out the gear set. Hate to say it but the best thing to do is to pull the jackpot out and get it resetup!

 

[bkdunha]

Ditto on the comments thus far. If you did not count the number of threads exposed on the pinion before removing the nut you will not get back to the correct setting on the crush sleeve. Without the being known you are better off rebuilding the whole rearend now versus doing it in a couple of weeks of months. If you cannot find a local shop with the knowledge and equipment to rebuild it there are plenty of instructional materials on the web. Now would also be the time to consider if you want to make a gear change since that is the easy part of the rebuild.

 

[marks73]

To my knowledge you must have it on the bench. Sorry. You went through some mess getting that far and in a very uncomfortable position I'm sure.

 

[ramair]

If it has the Daytona pinion support it won't have a crush sleeve. You might be able to put it back together without resetting the backlash, but it would still be iffy. You will most likely have to pull the differential and reset he backlash. Check this site to see if you have a Daytona pinion support.

http://kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

 

[Manu Mach1]

Thanks guys for those informations, I didn't know that. But anyway I had to remove the old seal as it was leaking.

To find in my place somebody with enough knowledge to do this won't be easy to find, I have to deal this with me myself and my shadow, and all what I can find on the net.

 

[marks73]

Thanks guys for those informations, I didn't know that. But anyway I had to remove the old seal as it was leaking.

To find in my place somebody with enough knowledge to do this won't be easy to find, I have to deal this with me myself and my shadow, and all what I can find on the net.

If the link Jeff recommended doesn't help I'll scan my service manual and post it shortly.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Thanks guys for those informations, I didn't know that. But anyway I had to remove the old seal as it was leaking.

To find in my place somebody with enough knowledge to do this won't be easy to find, I have to deal this with me myself and my shadow, and all what I can find on the net.

If the link Jeff recommended doesn't help I'll scan my service manual and post it shortly.

More information I get more good for me, so thanks if you can scan your service manual.

The picture you are showing is the front of the differential. The matching seal would be a pinion seal and the relationship between the ring and pinion gear is set with either solid washers or a crush washer. Now that you have taken the pinion nut off, getting the seal back in is only a small part of the problem. If you do not get the clearances right, the gears will wear out very, very rapidly.

I am not aware of any way to get the clearances right with the differential mounted in a 8" or 9" rear end.

The proper procedure from where you are would be to pull the wheels, pull the axles, remove the differential, then with the unit out of the car you can adjust pinion depth and backlash to the proper clearances.

Generally with used gears it is better to leave them alone as altering backlash or pinion depth will result in increased wear.

Here is a good link to understand the process

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/065/article/Ford_9_Inch_RebuildGear_Setup.html

Your link give me an idea of what I need to do. Another problem for me is my english, even if I can speak not to bad, I still have problems to understand what I read. But I will do how I can.

Looks like I will need to order some more parts, cause when the rear axle will be open, I will of course change the bearings.

Merci.

If it has the Daytona pinion support it won't have a crush sleeve. You might be able to put it back together without resetting the backlash, but it would still be iffy. You will most likely have to pull the differential and reset he backlash. Check this site to see if you have a Daytona pinion support.

http://kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

What do you mean by "iffy"?

I will post some more picture later.

On the tag plate I can read WES-AK.

 

[Tnfastbk]

WES-AK

71 Mustang

Size Ratio Splines

9 inch 3.50 28 Non lock

Type Wheel Bearing Diff Bearing

4 M (medium) SL (Slim Line)

http://www.mustangtek.com/differential/Differential.htm

 

[Manu Mach1]

WES-AK

71 Mustang

Size Ratio Splines

9 inch 3.50 28 Non lock

Type Wheel Bearing Diff Bearing

4 M (medium) SL (Slim Line)

http://www.mustangtek.com/differential/Differential.htm

merci

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

You may have another alternative.

A rebuilt differential and center section can be purchased in the States for about 750.00 depending on the features you want. It would be a very simple installation compared to trying to rebuild the existing one and you could add in the benefits of a Track lock differential, which can help with traction.

 

[Manu Mach1]

The clutch is on the way, I received part from NPD, Rockauto, then will be from CJ for the complete exaust system to change. The cost of the parts are not too expensive, but then taxes then customs kill my bank account, so... but we never know.

And what about this procedure?

 

[canadian_red_maple_leaf]

bonjour manu,

i might have a solution for you. i have rebuilt a few of theses cases in the past. i have a great and reliable address in graz, austria. if you want i can hook you up with the guy there. another alternative would be in germany. if you want give me a call.

abudi

 

[Manu Mach1]

bonjour manu,

i might have a solution for you. i have rebuilt a few of theses cases in the past. i have a great and reliable address in graz, austria. if you want i can hook you up with the guy there. another alternative would be in germany. if you want give me a call.

abudi

Hi Abudi,

Why not, maybe they know people in south of France? We can try this way.

I will see around here if I can find anybody to do it. But first I will try by myself, I did a lot of things on mecaninc parts, but not this one.

On the other side, it's cool to discover al the times new "problems", everyday we learn

 

[Wolverine]

What is more difficult:

1. Dealing with all the trouble getting parts for your Mustang in France

or

2. Dealing with all the French people in France

or

3. Dealing with all the non French people in France.

By the way, you were very smart to order 2 of those seals. I usually put the first one on backwards, the second one good enough to drive with a minor leak, and the I get the 3rd one pretty solid.

So, my tip is to buy 3.

 

[marks73]

bonjour manu,

i might have a solution for you. i have rebuilt a few of theses cases in the past. i have a great and reliable address in graz, austria. if you want i can hook you up with the guy there. another alternative would be in germany. if you want give me a call.

abudi

Hi Abudi,

Why not, maybe they know people in south of France? We can try this way.

I will see around here if I can find anybody to do it. But first I will try by myself, I did a lot of things on mecaninc parts, but not this one.

On the other side, it's cool to discover al the times new "problems", everyday we learn

Not to mention the knowledge of knowing exactly what was done when you do the work. Always made me feel good and if it turned out wrong, It was much easier and faster to do the second time.

 

[Manu Mach1]

If it has the Daytona pinion support it won't have a crush sleeve. You might be able to put it back together without resetting the backlash, but it would still be iffy. You will most likely have to pull the differential and reset he backlash. Check this site to see if you have a Daytona pinion support.

http://kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

I saw this afternoon that my axle is "N" case, so maybe equipped with a Daytona pinion.