Refurbishing my '73 after 48 years of ownership

[Idaho Chris]

August 5, 2021

At this point in the original "What did you do to your car today" thread, Carolina Mountain Mustangs made the below post. I have repeated it here as it raises two questions that folks reading this thread may find interesting:

Chris a couple of questions. Looking at your picture of the brake bleeder hooked to your front caliper I think you have the caliper on the wrong side. The bleed valve should always be at the highest point on any disc brake set up. There will be air in the system for sure no way to get that bubble out of the top of the bore. Here is a picture of one of mine.

On the console around the shift boot. The manual shift cars have an additional piece that goes around the boot to hide the screws. It sits loose under the console and hides the base of the boot and the carpet. They do repo them but only the one for the short console. The only difference was that the long console has four rounded corners. I do not think I have a picture on this computer. NPD has them for sure and maybe a member has and original. Will be black on all color consoles.

I did not have a picture showing the bleed valve this is best I could do for now.
Here is a link to one Don has it is configured like the short version was. The long did not have the ears sticking out. Will fit and cannot see the ears. https://www.ebay.com/itm/192471265334?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=192471265334&targetid=1264870804704&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9010303&poi=&campaignid=10455986539&mkgroupid=123050588060&rlsatarget=pla-1264870804704&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6557784&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr7roxpaa8gIVpBx9Ch0hNwqbEAQYAyABEgKAlPD_BwE


My reply to David is the next post.

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 5, 2021

Well it wouldn't be the first time that I made a stupid mistake if I put the calipers on wrong. I am always glad to have a second (or third) set of eyes to check me out!

That said, here's a pic of the passenger side caliper. With the bleed screw up on the top I think they are installed correctly, no?



And, thanks for the heads up on the shifter filler. I'll check out NPD. Are you suggesting the small console filler would work for me on my full sized console?

Thanks.

I just checked NPD and they do stock the necessary filler, but damn $35 for a piece of plastic? If I had a template I'd just cut my own...

Easier/cheaper to order from Don at OMS via his eBay link.

 

[Idaho Chris]

Hemikiller replied with the following:

The calipers are on the correct side when the bleeder points to the *rear* of the car. If it points straight up, you'll never get the air out and have to switch sides. Here's a graphic I made to help people visualize the issue. IMO, yours appear to be correct.



The same filler is used regardless of console type. The 429 Megasite has a drawing to make your own, about 3/4 down the page.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/components_2.htm

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 5, 2021

Dennis-

Looks like I am good to go then. Thanks.

That's a relief!

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 5, 2021

I fabricated a spacer to move the new Hurst shift lever aft 3/4" and right 1/4" to better align the lever with the new OEM spec rubber boot.



I finished up the new carpet install.



I must say it looks a little strange to see a clutch pedal and shifter in my Mustang after all these 'automatic" decades. I'll finish up work on the center console next. The console should trim out and hide the shifter boot attachment bolts.

 

[Idaho Chris]

I got my instrument cluster back together. Installed a new headlight switch and reinstalled the seats.



I have always wished I had the factory leather wheel option, but since I don't, I did the next best thing and stitched on a leather cover. An hour and two sore hands later it is on.

Still working on the center console.

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 9, 2021

This morning I finished up a few odds and ends on the Mach 1; filled the power steering pump, installed spark plugs, and a final brake bleed all four corners. I installed a couple of temporary exhaust turn downs on the mufflers as I will need a muffler shop to install the tail pipes. Some adjustment will be necessary to get the chrome tips to properly line up with the rear valence cutouts.




WTF was I thinking when I decided (at the mature age of 19) that I needed to paint the differential Ford blue? Next time I have the car on the rack it will be wire wheeled and painted black.

Tomorrow is the big day!

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 10, 2021

Long post today, sorry, but wow what a day. This morning I pushed my old girl out of the shop in preparation for the first engine start in almost 30 years. I truly did not know what to expect. I have done a bunch of work on the car over the past months. So many changes all at once including a transmission swap means there are so many things that could go wrong.

After dumping 5 gallons of non-ethanol premium in the tank, I disconnected the coil and cranked the engine to prime the fuel bowls and circulate the oil. I re-connected the coil and pulled a plug wire to confirm I had spark. You never know after installing a new engine wiring harness, new distributor, new plug wires and a new coil, but good news… I had spark.

Well, time for the moment of truth. With a remote starter switch hooked up to the solenoid and a fire extinguisher close at hand I pushed the button…

Bam! She fired right up on the first crank without a stumble or a missed beat. I’m not sure the crankshaft even made a full rotation before firing off! Idle was a little high, timing only close, but otherwise running great.

The video below was taken 30 seconds after firing off. I looked for leaks and walked around the back to smell/listen to the exhaust and shot the video.

View attachment Attach23329_20210809_095609.mp4

Unbelievable. The car started and ran as if she had been my daily driver. I quite literally had tears in my eyes. Here she was…my first car…alive again after all these years!!

Back to the front of the car…a little fiddling with the idle screw… watching for leaks/smoke…I let her warm up and goosed the throttle a couple times. Electric choke needed no adjustment and the now warm engine settled down to a smooth idle of around 1000 rpm (tach works!).

I then shot this video:


View attachment Attach23331_20210809_095625.mp4

As you can see/hear, she’s running smoothly on all eight.

After a quick adjustment of the timing and adjusting the idle to around 750 rpm I shut her down and just stood there smiling and laughing…

Well…WTF…I don’t need no stinkin’ registration or insurance…I installed the air cleaner, grabbed my wallet and jumped in. She fired right up again and I drove into town 15 miles round trip and topped off the tank.

Clutch worked smoothly, transmission shifted like butter, no noise from the new Eaton rear end, power brakes worked, power steering made no noise, hell, even the “eyeball” front end alignment wasn’t bad!

I am so happy I am giddy. I have been sitting staring at the old girl all afternoon re-living my youth.

Life is good indeed!

 

[Sheriff41]

August 10, 2021

Long post today, sorry, but wow what a day. This morning I pushed my old girl out of the shop in preparation for the first engine start in almost 30 years. I truly did not know what to expect. I have done a bunch of work on the car over the past months. So many changes all at once including a transmission swap means there are so many things that could go wrong.

After dumping 5 gallons of non-ethanol premium in the tank, I disconnected the coil and cranked the engine to prime the fuel bowls and circulate the oil. I re-connected the coil and pulled a plug wire to confirm I had spark. You never know after installing a new engine wiring harness, new distributor, new plug wires and a new coil, but good news… I had spark.

Well, time for the moment of truth. With a remote starter switch hooked up to the solenoid and a fire extinguisher close at hand I pushed the button…

Bam! She fired right up on the first crank without a stumble or a missed beat. I’m not sure the crankshaft even made a full rotation before firing off! Idle was a little high, timing only close, but otherwise running great.

The video below was taken 30 seconds after firing off. I looked for leaks and walked around the back to smell/listen to the exhaust and shot the video.

View attachment 84717

Unbelievable. The car started and ran as if she had been my daily driver. I quite literally had tears in my eyes. Here she was…my first car…alive again after all these years!!

Back to the front of the car…a little fiddling with the idle screw… watching for leaks/smoke…I let her warm up and goosed the throttle a couple times. Electric choke needed no adjustment and the now warm engine settled down to a smooth idle of around 1000 rpm (tach works!).

I then shot this video:


View attachment 84718

As you can see/hear, she’s running smoothly on all eight.

After a quick adjustment of the timing and adjusting the idle to around 750 rpm I shut her down and just stood there smiling and laughing…

Well…WTF…I don’t need no stinkin’ registration or insurance…I installed the air cleaner, grabbed my wallet and jumped in. She fired right up again and I drove into town 15 miles round trip and topped off the tank.

Clutch worked smoothly, transmission shifted like butter, no noise from the new Eaton rear end, power brakes worked, power steering made no noise, hell, even the “eyeball” front end alignment wasn’t bad!

I am so happy I am giddy. I have been sitting staring at the old girl all afternoon re-living my youth.

Life is good indeed!

This was a great post! It really captures the passion and joy we have for our cars.

 

[PoFoMoCo]

This was a great post! It really captures the passion and joy we have for our cars.

Amen brother, a great post indeed. That’s good stuff right there Chris!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Another BIG CONGRATULATIONS to you Chris. Good to see and hear that Cleveland breathing again!

 

[PoFoMoCo]

I have been reading through your build again, thanks for pulling everything over from the other thread. So I gotta ask, 2 years later after you started this build…do you any regrets or things you would have changed?

 

[Idaho Chris]

Thanks for the kind words all!

I have been reading through your build again, thanks for pulling everything over from the other thread. So I gotta ask, 2 years later after you started this build…do you any regrets or things you would have changed?

Interesting question. It has been over two years and close to 3,000 miles now. I don't think I'd change anything, but I do have a regret.

When I started out I really just wanted to fix her up, install a manual transmission and get back on the road. In hind sight things came together better than I anticipated. If I had it to do over I would spent more time really cleaning up and detailing the underside and the firewall.

 

[Idaho Chris]

So we're not quite done yet, still a few more posts to come:

August 13, 2021

I got the rear exhaust tips installed and lined up with the valence cutouts. The guy that did the modification/install is an artist. Tips are perfectly centered and the gap is equidistant all the way around the tips; side to side and top.

A couple pics, here's how much tubing he had to add to the "bolt-in" Precision Exhaust tailpipes.



A couple more photos of the finished tailpipes:






Differential is wire wheeled and now painted black, and I am road-legal again with temporary registration tag.

 

[PoFoMoCo]

… I fabricated a spacer to move the new Hurst shift lever aft 3/4" and right 1/4" to better align the lever with the new OEM spec rubber boot.

It’s the little details that really make a build for me. This is a great touch. Without this thread pic no one would know this detail, but… YOU know and it makes you really happy every time your hand touches that shifter. Nice

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 26, 2021

Over the past few days I have been finishing up little things on my car. All new vacuum hoses properly run so everything works including Ram Air doors and heat riser motor. Installed all new exterior light bulbs, and modern 3 point seat belts.

Mostly I have been driving every chance I get. Since the first engine start since 1992 16 days ago I have put over 300 miles on the car! I have other cars that are faster and handle better but none of them make me smile like this old girl. I have a silly SEG on my face the whole time I am out on the road.

Here are a couple of videos, all tuned up with the tips on. First after cold start (obviously) second all warmed up.



View attachment 620210817_102232.mp4



View attachment 20210817_102809.mp4

I have some cosmetic issues to address next. It might take a while since I seem to be driving instead of working...

 

[Mister 4x4]

Awesome work and Nice Car! Your shop is quite impressive as well.

 

[Idaho Chris]

August 31, 2021

I re-installed the center console for the third time.




I have tried two different batches of SEM interior medium blue paint on my center console but the color was a fair ways off from the rest of the interior and just looked horrible. I have decided to go black on the console and the contrast seems to work well with my door panels, floor mats and center gauge stack (I got rid of the fake wood look back in '79).

I'll keep searching for the correct color paint and if I manage to find it I'll try painting the console again.

Back in the 70's I had a set of racing stripe Mustang running horse floor mats like the ones in the picture except they were blue. I've searched high and low for a new blue set, but apparently they are only made in black these days.

For the moment though, the two tone blue/black is growing on me...

 

[Idaho Chris]

The above post started a conversation about interior/center console paint. I will attempt to cut and paste it below as others might be interested in the advice.

 

[Idaho Chris]

Hi Idaho Chris,

Regards your center console color.

The black contrast is an option, and looks pretty good. However, if you wanted to color change it to matching blue, the only way to achieve this is to take your car down to a decent paint and panel shop that can either color match paint by eye of use a spectrograph analizer. The best paint to work with is auto acrylic Lacquer, but 2 pak solids can be ok as well. You can even get to choose the gloss level you want to end up with. Your whole interior has a few different shades of blue. Choose the one that you like the look of best and go with that.Also the upholstery has a very fine hint of metallic in it. This effect can also be reproduced in the made up paint. If you possess spray guns and a compressor, you could take on this refinish job yourself. If not, then leave it to a pro spray painter to refinish, as spraying plastics is always a tricky deal to get it right.

So forget rattle can paints, color matching is the only way to get a good match that you are chasing. Hope that helps.

Greg (pro spray painter) :classic_smile:

Thanks for the advice Greg! I do have a spray gun and compressor so I'll do some research and find someone that can mix me up a custom batch of paint. I've gotten nowhere with the rattle cans.

I live in the middle of nowhere, so unfortunately that business is likely a two hour drive each way (Spokane).

Chris, call KC Auto Paint on 4th in Coeur d'Alene. I've had good luck with them and they're closer than Spokane. Also less sales tax. :thumb:

I have refinished many consoles and have never had an issue with the SEM paints matching. You should be using the paint not the dye. ABS hard parts use the paints that I have always had 100% perfect match with. You need to strip all the old paints off the console first using oven cleaner. Then wash with Dawn and hot water and then a wipe down with lacquer thinner before paint. Only two light coats are needed. If you put too much paint on you fill in the texture and will look odd for sure. I have never had a complaint on finish or color using the SEM paints. I get mine from NPD. I have a blue interior 72 Mach 1 that came with full length console but it has never needed to be refurbished. As far as getting it scanned and mix paint that would be a huge cost for just your console. Have been doing them for over 50 years started with 65 console.

I see lots of good advice to help Idaho Chris get his console sorted, but just like with most Windows utilities, there are at least 8 different ways to skin the cat.

I got lucky with mine since the interior was Deluxe Black, which lends itself to matching things up MUCH easier than with other colors. Throw in years (decades) of age, sun fade & weathering, and now you have several completely different shades of (insert interior color here) going on. The SEM colors are truly awesome, and work VERY well - that's what I went with... but it really only works IF you need to refresh ALL of the color in the interior... again, depending on which colors we're talking about. It will most likely not match perfectly straight out of the can because of those age factors... which is why you're having issues matching things up, and also why Greg made the suggestion of getting the color-match done by someone with the right equipment. Usually, a paint store and/or painter won't charge for scanning to get the right mix, but even so, it won't be much, and will save a TON of trial & error in the long run. My paint shop guy had all of the same equipment and matched up the paint for my Jeep and Mustang perfectly - not a penny charged, either (of course, the paint wasn't cheap, so I'm sure it works out in the end).

Oven cleaner can be a mixed bag, depending on what you go with (again, so many different kinds to choose from - some can even melt the texture, as they're designed for metal surfaces). Dawn dishwashing soap is an awesome degreaser, but just as bad if you don't get it all removed. Lacquer thinner?! I suppose... but I've never had to go with such a harsh evaporative chemical after getting it clean with with the dish soap treatment.

SEM Products are also designed to be used as a system, with surface prep, adhesion promoters, texture enhancement, and colors. I refinished all of my interior pieces (old & new 'repop' pieces) at the same to ensure they all came out the same shade of black (again, tough to mess that up, but there really ARE about 600 shades of black, just like with every other color). The surface prep and adhesion promoter actually softens the plastic (yes, kind of 'melts' it a little) so the texture enhancement and paint actually stick a bit better, since you're not using primer. I made a melty thumb print on a test piece to learn that little nugget (be careful handling the pieces throughout the process).

Thanks to my airbrushing experience, I've discovered House of Kolors Surface Prep pretty much replaces the need for anything else once the old surface has been stripped and cleaned. It's a mild soapy-like degreaser than won't do anything except remove grease, oils, and other adhesion-preventing substances. A good degreaser that is plastic-friendly is WAY better than harsh solvents.

Make sure to follow the directions, have as dust-free of an environment as possible, and use a tack cloth just before you spray the first coat of whatever, and you're golden.