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Single-groove 351C 4V valves

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Did some Googling - the 6000's are rather over the top for a stock build, wouldn't you say?

-Kurt
You didn't really get specific towards what your rebuild intentions are. There are stock specification valves and there are valves with extended stems for different applications. Then there are valves intended for a stock rebuild, which is what I now believe your intentions are. That is why I threw up the 5000 and 6000 series choices. They are both stock length and will interchange.

I had generic stainless steel valves in my engine when I first built it. With the roller cam it mushroomed out the tops of the exhaust valves, and damaged the tops of the intakes. Just because it says stainless steel, does not automatically mean high performance. The 8 new Manley Severe Duty valves I put in cost more than all 16 of the old valves. I don't skimp on valves anymore.

My new build will be a high revver so that is why I'm opting for the 6000 series valves.

 
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I used the Alex's locks with the stock retainers-fit nicely
Good. Both the Comp and the stock retainers are 7 degree, so it should work fine.

Still can't tell if the springs are Comp Cams or the stock; seems as if the Comp springs specified for this build are identical to stock units.

-Kurt

 
Get your springs tested if you are not sure. Usually stock and old springs are quite weak. I have the smallest Comp XE254 FE camshaft in my 66 F-100. The stock springs were nowhere close to being usable even for that small of a camshaft. I think they were only 95lbs on the seat.

 
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