twisted car?

[87fox72mach]

after thinking deeply about my roof rail seams on either side of the windshied where body lead is present being a bit cracked i was curious to see if my body was twisted, my car has signs of being raced at one point battery in the trunk etc, now where my trans tunnels ends in the back seats has some wirnkles there but no paint is chipped etc could my car be twisted im worried now! does anyone else have a few wrinkles there also??

 

[Qcode351mach]

after thinking deeply about my roof rail seams on either side of the windshied where body lead is present being a bit cracked i was curious to see if my body was twisted, my car has signs of being raced at one point battery in the trunk etc, now where my trans tunnels ends in the back seats has some wirnkles there but no paint is chipped etc could my car be twisted im worried now! does anyone else have a few wrinkles there also??

Cracks in the windshield front pillars /posts at the roof to post joint is a common issue on these cars..The only way to really fix it is to fully weld the seam..Then build up the joint fill in a bit with tig or mig..Smooth out ...Then use evercoat #870 or 3m green epoxy as a base filler..Then your regular filler..There are some factory dimples wrinkles in the floor pan from the stamping process..Hard to tell with out a pic..Your best bet if your concerned that the unibody is tweaked or damaged is to spec out the car using the unibody spec sheet..Or take it to a reputable body shop who has a frame machine..& have it checked..You can do some simple checks yourself to check for square..Look at the trunk rehab thread..There's a lot of good info I posted up on the measuring process

 

[87fox72mach]

thanks for the info ill have to check it out , it was hit in the quarter because i can see where they pulled it out a bit but the trunk floor inner quarters etc are not damagedd or wrinkled ill try and work on pics

 

[mikepasquale1]

Heres the specs

Mustang Unibody.pdf

 

[87fox72mach]

does anyone have an pictures of their tunnel where it meets the floor under that back i just want to see if mine is similiar thanks!

 

[Flatback72.]

Here's a pic I took a few months ago when I was cleaning up the floors and dynamatting. The top of area of the tunnel is obscured by the seat back vinyl but you can see a few stamping wrinkles present here and there:

 

[mikepasquale1]

Here is 87fox72mach's car. Meant to post this for him a while ago:

 

[Tnfastbk]

Here is mine but it is cover with Lizzard Skin

 

[Mister 4x4]

Thanks for the tip, Scott! The lead on my driver side A-pillar joint has pretty much popped out as well. I'm thinking based on all the damage to my fenders, along with the radiator core having been welded on the old front clip, that mine suffered some collision damage as well (in addition to all the Redneck Fun it endured).

Since the chassis is still all squared up, I'm thinking the lead might've popped from the impact and never was right after that.

I was thinking about just "lead-ing" it back up, but I like your idea a lot better (especially not having to worry about the nastiness of using lead). I might also just dig out the lead on the passenger side and do the same.

 

[87fox72mach]

mike thanks for helping me with that picture and everyone elses pics it seems these wrinkles arent really present anywhere on the opposite side that is pictured of the tunnel no signs of head on collision, i know the car suffered a light hit in the drivers rear quarter but no damage ot trunk innerwheels etc i dont think it was a very hard hit at all im just goin to start welding in my pans soon and wanna make sure there is nothing i have to get straightened before hand

 

[mach71351c]

My led seems are cracked and the car was just a stock cruiser.

 

[87fox72mach]

not worried bout roof seams im more worried about the wrinkles in my tunnel

 

[Qcode351mach]

I looked at my floor pan..Doesn't have wrinkles like yours..I would at the bare minimum check the chassis for square..You can do it using just a string..The most important is going to be the suspension mounting points..So I would string from the front leaf spring mounting point on the frame to the lower control arm mounting point on the center cross member.. I would then move on to doing the rear ..From the the rear leaf spring hanger bolt to the front leaf spring mounting bolt..Doing this will give you a rough idea if something is wrong..Here's how to measure for square..(scroll to measuring a four sided frame)

http://www.carpentry-tips-and-tricks.com/Check-For-Square.html