My car only has the heater option, no air conditioning. I removed the heater core and lines to make the engine bay look cleaner. The engine is a 351 4V Cleveland and it has the restrictor plate inside the block under the thermostat housing. I have the proper thermostat as well.
Can I simply block off both of the water pump heater outlets or do I need to loop them together? I want to make sure the engine gets proper cooling since I'm in South Texas and the weather is extremely hot.
Thanks!
Both of the nipples
on the water pump connect to the same area in the water pump.
They are both inlets into the pump. They, in addition to the radiator hose connection, are the inlet/supply side of the pump. The pump pulls coolant in from those locations and pushes the coolant into the block via two passage ways between the pump and the block.
If you eliminate the heater core you
could loop a piece of hose from the nipple
ON THE BLOCK to one of the nipples on the water pump. (either one-they are the same) This will achieve what the bypass washer's purpose is. (bypassing "the radiator" directly back to the pump...and into the block again) This will route a percentage of your heated coolant directly back to the pump and back to the block,
bypassing the radiator. This would allow the coolant in the block/heads to circulate prior to the thermostat opening. This by the way, is what the bypass washer does, only the bypass washer closes as the thermostat opens- to direct all coolant through the radiator. So you could then eliminate the brass bypass washer and use a non-Cleveland specific thermostat but you would then have a bypass which
remains open, all the time.
I would install pipe plugs in the two ports on the water pump (one of which had a heater hose) and cap/plug the nipple on the block (which had a heater hose) and keep the brass bypass washer with the Cleveland specific thermostat. When plugged this way it is exactly (to your car's cooling system) as if the heater is turned off. When your heat is turned off, there is no coolant flowing from the nipple on the block to the heater core. If there's no coolant flowing
to the heater core, there is no coolant flowing
from the heater core to the water pump. Therefore the only coolant that can flow to the water pump will be through the bypass washer, when the thermostat is closed or the lower radiator hose, when the thermostat is open.
My car only has the heater option, no air conditioning. I removed the heater core and lines to make the engine bay look cleaner. The engine is a 351 4V Cleveland and it has the restrictor plate inside the block under the thermostat housing. I have the proper thermostat as well.
Can I simply block off both of the water pump heater outlets or do I need to loop them together? I want to make sure the engine gets proper cooling since I'm in South Texas and the weather is extremely hot.
Thanks!
you need to loop them together . the rubber caps are NOT designed to hold much pressure and can and do fail . been there, done that.
also, there is no need to bypass the heater if your rad and fans are big enough, in fact, if they were you could run 185 degrees on a 100 degree day.
Respectfully speaking, I'm not sure what question it is that you answered but if you are saying to connect together the 2 nipples/ports
which are both on the water pump, that is not correct. Connecting those two ports together will do nothing. It would be the same as putting plugs in both of them.
