Recent content by midlife

That ammeter needle will move: turn on headlights, open doors, press brake, push in cigarette lighter and maybe the needle will deflect 1/4 needle's width. The gauge is an analog equivalent of an alternator indicator lamp: it is either off or way to the left or right if something is really bad...

That item is incredibly rare, and in high demand. Someone has already bought it!

Dash lamps get their power from the headlight switch via a variable resistor. You need to pull the headlight knob out, and rotate it to one side (or another). Power goes to the interior fuse clip.

Please do not replace the alternator indicator lamp or the proportioning brake light with LED's, as both lamps are polarity sensitive.

Mike is going to get a swelled head if y'all keep this up....*G*

Hey! Don't forget your long-lost son here in Tucson!!!

my first elective course in college was "Movie Appreciation" taught by Manny Farber. He drummed into the students to watch for mike booms, wrong shadow patterns, contrails in Western sky shots, poor continuity shots, etc. I now can't watch anything without picking at things.

Be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before drilling out that lock cylinder.

The 1971 underdash should have a red/yellow at that position. The green wire is for the 1972 underdash. It may be you have a 72 underdash and a 71 headlight harness. They're largely compatible except for emissions control and seat belt relay. To prove you have a 72 underdash, look on the RH...

Not in any Mustang catalog...ask me how I know!

Whoa! Disconnect the positive side of the battery? Never do this until the negative side has been disconnected!!! If you inadvertently have your wrench touch the car body, you'll have a dead short and start welding immediately. Never, ever, disconnect the positive side of the battery before...

Entire connector has to be replaced. If from valence light, probably have to replace entire light assembly.

The 7123 dash clusters are plastic and if a post touches the housing, there is no short. The problem of gauge shorting is most prominent on 69/70 dash cluster housings with the circuit cards.

When a gauge pegs out, that means that the line going to the sending unit has inadvertently been grounded. Check for pinched wires behind the console and if not there, underneath the car. A quick check is to remove the sending unit connector and see if it still pegs. If it does, then the wire...

I have never seen a fusible link in a tail section, ever.