Check timing then carb
That rpm is where carb is transitioning from idle to main circuit but also where the advance on timing is active.
Easier to check timing so I would do that first.
Welcome from Plano, TX
I would loosen the mc and verify the actuator rod length. I measured in the mc plunger distance then used that to set the rod with 1/32 space.
If the rod is to long the mc won’t go back far enough to “reset”
A quick check is to loosen the mc some and try the pedal. If...
I cleaned my hood of everything to see where it needed work and to plan for cut and scoops. I used ospho.
It hasn’t flash rusted for over a year. It got sprinkled on twice.
I applied it thicker than I should have so it has texture, but it has protected the metal until I am ready to remove...
I put in lizardskin sound and heat over a rust encapsulater. Haven’t done carpet yet as I am out of money for project stuff
I can put my hand on the floor comfortably right where the 3” exhaust is so it works pretty good
CAA you block off the vent. It is recirculating all the time.
Thus worked out well for me as my cowl was rusted and I was able to cut out the rust and seal it up.
Verify repo wiring
Mine the wires were swapped and it was a dead short that kept blowing fuses.
The rewire was going so good then WTF.
Easy fix after I figured it out.
It is called decibelX
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/decibel-x-db-sound-level-meter/id448155923
Xpipes normally raise the pitch some, but mine is pretty deep. That might have to do with the compression. Almost 10:1 with the the blower and a cam designed to help with the compression and blower.