1973 Coupe 302 auto, in Alaska

I bought my 73 coupe Oct 23rd, 2023 for $6k. Joined the forum shortly after, posted a few threads about it (my favorite was finding someone who bought it and joined more than 10 years ago). It was running rough, and I didn't want to start digging into cosmetics and whatnot till I at least had it running right. Come spring of this year, I got it to a local mechanic I trust. Turned out to be pretty much worst-case scenario. Failed compression and leakdown tests and we basically called it at that point. Decided with the mechanic that a rebuild was in order. Left it there in April, decided at the same time that front suspension was essentially shot and might as well replace it all.

What was supposed to be 5 weeks turned into 7 months. Every time we made some progress, a new issue popped up. I was hoping to keep it around 10k for the engine and suspension, turned into almost $17k. Yikes, but at least In have an engine, suspension, and brakes I can trust while I work on the rest.

Since getting it back on Friday, I've found a couple issues. Obviously the body is still rough. It was in some kind of front end accident, and from the post of old owner I found it was within the last 10 years. I don't mind a bit of ratty, I'd definitely take a ratty car I can drive than a well painted project stuck in the garage. Original California car, and besides the post from 12 years ago, no idea when it made its way up to Alaska. The nice thing is, we don't salt our roads (gets too cold) so winters here aren't as detrimental as they are back east.

Did a couple minor things (replaced aftermarket gas cap with an original-ish, brake pedal cover, etc). This winter I plan to replace carpet, grills/lights, install a cheap radio, and repaint worn interior pieces, and some other things. Plan is to enjoy as much time as I can on the road in 25, and next winter dig into some deeper issues. Future plans include swapping to a 71-2 front bumper (black, not chrome), recover seats, full interior panel refurb (dash, console, dash pad, etc), work on rear panel, and eventually a repaint. I'd like to take that on myself, I'd be happier with a 25 footer I did myself than the expense of a 5 footer.

Will post updates, large and small, here. Pics in this post are from initial ownership last year.

video of it running after getting it back Friday night 11/22. Did a couple **very** small things this weekend, changed the aftermarket gas cap and added brake pedal cover. Last couple pics are filling up yesterday. Had to get an hour of driving in before the snow hit today, we've reached the point now where it likely wouldn't be able to leave the driveway even if I wanted to.

Couple questions:
Dash lights are out. Don't know if they were out before. Idiot lights work, turn signal indicators work, high beam indicator works, shifter light works, just nothing at the gauges. Assumed it was the headlight switch, so I replaced that but no change (old switch was falling apart, so that would have happened either way)
Wiper switch - I have low and high speed, but no way I can tell to spray fluid. My switch doesn't push, pull, or twist in any way other than the low and high speed setting. Is it possible it was swapped with an earlier switch? Its been almost 20 years since I had my 70 so I don't remember which way activated fluid, but surely there aren't any methods I haven't tried.
Harness. Seems to be pretty well aged. Lots of weird things PO's did. I was considering getting a Painless/AAW, but so many people are happy with Midlife restorations and I'd love to keep the original. I am planning to go that route, but I don't see any actual posts on removing the underdash harness. Is it just a matter of finding every connector I can, separating, and yanking the whole thing out? Is putting it back in pretty straightforward after it's been, say, 2 months from when you yanked it all?
My car was original AC, compressor was yanked but heater controls are still in place. Fan control works, but directional control does nothing (top dash vents blow only, no change in direction when knob is moved). Lower switch has some kind of spring pulling it back to heat if I try to move it towards cool. Also, I can't tell if the air ever actually heats. Granted it was 20 degrees when I tested but even after 40+ mins of driving if I turned the blower on it was blowing cold air. I have no need for AC in Alaska, but I'd like heat. I'm guessing at least I'd have to pull the control panel but I assume if I want actual control I'd need to swap my AC heater box and controls for non-AC?
Exhaust - I was gifted a set of fox body 5.0 headers. They didn't line up with stock exhaust manifolds so during the engine reinstall I kept the manifolds and existing exhaust (glasspacks, not sure how much custom or not past manifolds). Will these be compatible, in general, if I take them to an exhaust shop? Or should I craiglist them for a set from a retailer? Can post pics if it would help.

On the dash lights, make sure you have a good chassis ground between the battery's negative terminal and the chassis. If you have Halogen headlights you should add a headlight relay kit to help take the load off the switch and original wiring. @TheRktmn (https://www.rccinnovations.com/) is one of our own and makes kits for our cars. This may help you get some dim dash lights.

For your heater vent issues, make sure you have a vacuum source going to the control panel. On AC equipped cars the small vacuum hose enters the cabin through the firewall on the right side of the car near the heater hoses and AC lines.

I feel like @Spaceman and I are literally doing the same builds lol. Small progress where you can. I do wish mine was running as well and sounding as mean as yours my friend....hopefully soon however.

It was good to see you got her out and running...although after living in the midwest for 18 years of my 51....I can tell you I can "feel" how cold it is where you're at in those pictures. I don't miss it pumping gas and having your fingers go numb and it hurts to breath the air lol.

Keep plugging away and keeping us posted. You and I are kindred spirits on these builds!

PBR

Yep, I feel the same way PBR! It's why I've been so interested following your progress.

It's a bit chilly, but I do love it. I can't stand the heat, never been happier since I moved up here. Just wish the weather was more cooperative towards driving a classic. That's ok though, gives me a true winter to get projects done I suppose.

Sheriff41 said:

On the dash lights, make sure you have a good chassis ground between the battery's negative terminal and the chassis. If you have Halogen headlights you should add a headlight relay kit to help take the load off the switch and original wiring. @TheRktmn (https://www.rccinnovations.com/) is one of our own and makes kits for our cars. This may help you get some dim dash lights.

For your heater vent issues, make sure you have a vacuum source going to the control panel. On AC equipped cars the small vacuum hose enters the cabin through the firewall on the right side of the car near the heater hoses and AC lines.

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Thank you for the advice. Would a bad ground cause issues with the gauge backlights but not exterior lights, turn signal indicators and high beam indicator? Planning to do relays, thanks for the reminder about them as well. More things to add to the cart haha.

I'm also going to check out the fuse, that little 4a is so small I can't tell if the filament is intact or not. Assuming ground is good and fuse doesn't fix it, next I'll pull the gauge cluster and make sure the mechanic put bulbs back in. We replaced the printed circuit panel with a new one, I would be surprised if he put in the dummy lights and others but left out those ones, but you never know.

I'll have to get under the dash sometime and see what I see regarding the heater control panel.

A bad or non-existent chassis ground can make the dash lights very dim to darn near off while your headlights and other exterior lights will be on. The ground can affect other electrical functions, also.
If you replaced your dash light bulbs with LED ones you need to be aware their polarity of the bulbs when installing them. If you get them in backwards, they won't light.

Well figured out the heat issue. It's been bypassed. Firewall lines run out and loop right back, intake/water pump do the same. Lines in second photo loop just under the shock tower brace. An old AC line runs from the firewall to the

I guess pulling the heater core to check for leaks will be in the future before changing any of that.

Battery has a nice new ground going under the engine and one going to the radiator support. Also found a receipt for 10 incandescent bulbs with everything I got back, so not looking at polarity issues with LEDs it seems.

Thanks for the help everyone! I don't post too often but I lurk constantly, been researching and absorbing as much as I can for the last year already, it's just finally time for the practical application.

Spaceman said:

Well figured out the heat issue. It's been bypassed. Firewall lines run out and loop right back, intake/water pump do the same. Lines in second photo loop just under the shock tower brace. An old AC line runs from the firewall to the

I guess pulling the heater core to check for leaks will be in the future before changing any of that.

Battery has a nice new ground going under the engine and one going to the radiator support. Also found a receipt for 10 incandescent bulbs with everything I got back, so not looking at polarity issues with LEDs it seems.

Thanks for the help everyone! I don't post too often but I lurk constantly, been researching and absorbing as much as I can for the last year already, it's just finally time for the practical application.

Click to expand...

If you pull the plenum from under the dash, don't bother with checking the old core for leaks, just replace it while you have it out. I'd recommend a copper/brass one over an aluminum one.

One 4A fuse later and I have lights in the speedo and dummy light side. Fuel is out. Interestingly, and possibly related, the right signal indicator has either some other light leakage or something else going on as its very faintly lit while lights are on. Left doesn't have that. Both fully light up and shut off as normal when they should. Problems for another day.

Driver's parking light was obviously damaged when the car had gotten in its previous accident - plastic backing is broken so bulb sits loose, missing the bezel, lens has a melted spot in it (from loose light resting against it too long? projectile rock? who's to say). I have new ones on the way, but in the meantime I had a bezel to add and threw the glass back on. Running pony emblem lost its red and had no locknuts to hold it in, so some sharpie and a zip tie later and I'm running a 25 footer!

Current grill is broken in at least 6 places, a new one is on my list. But for now it looks more complete. With the lights on you can't even tell!

It's the little things sometimes haha.