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It appears to be a pretty in depth project to remove the drip rail including removing the rear qtr windows.  Do I really need to remove the drip rails to paint or can I just tape them up?  I know that the preferred method would probably be to remove the rails but I would really like to avoid it...

Are there any good sites\video's for rebuilding a Holley 650 dbl pump?  I know the basics of disassembly but curious about any "secret" tips, baseline idle adjustment, float adjustment, and other tricks.

Since I am doing a complete color change do I need to strip the door jams down to bare metal or can I just sand them smooth and shoot with epoxy primer sealer and then high build primer?  With all of the surface rust on the outer sheet metal I don't have much choice other that to strip all the...

This is a cool machine.  I am seriously considering buying it.

Thanks guys! So if I am reading these posts correct I should follow the below process. Am I correct? 1. I should remove as much as I can mechanically 2. The preferred chemical is molasses mixed with water 9:1 3. brush the molasses on and let it sit. Then hose it off The hood will have to...

Glad you and your family are ok.  Hopefully the cleanup will be quick and as less stressful as possible. ::thumb:: ::thumb::

does the poor 15 and\or molasses remove the "rough to the touch" surface rust or do I still need to mechanically sand it first and then apply to remove any surface rust left behind that isn't "rough to the touch"?

For this stuff what do I do spray it on with a bottle, let it sit then hose it off? For the molasses:  isnt it thick sticky and messy?   Where do you get it? Where do you get the phosphate? Is the phosphate liquid? Mix it and spray it on with a bottle?

This rust is all over the body.  It all sands off but what do I spray over it?  Do I need to treat the body with something after I get the rust smoothed out.  Epoxy primer?

Thanks Mike!  You have the same wheels and hub caps I have.  They look good on your car!!

Its going to be a while before I get aftermarket rims and tires so I need to look for tires that fit my stock 15" hubcap rims without rubbing and staying tucked up under the fender wells.  I want either good year or BFG both in raised white letters.  What are my options?

I'll try grease again and see if that helps. ::thumb::

"You don't buy cool, you build it" :goodpost: ::thumb::

I'm going to the GoodGuys car show in Charlotte this coming weekend. I will be surprised if I see even one of our cars. They seem to be rare finds in car shows at least around here. I didn't buy mine for an investment and am sure I will spend way more money in getting it back on the road than...

Hmmm... I have a smooth garage floor and did take apart and lube the caster but the problem seems to be the weight is so heavy on them up front that they wont swivel. The back of the car I can almost push iwth one hand and it moves wherever I want.

I see prices all over the place for my 1972 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed.  I was just wondering if you guys think we will ever see the bigger prices for our cars like you see with the older Mustangs?  I don't want to sale my car but I would like to think I will eventually have a valuable classic.

Maybe I just bought the wrong ones and from the wrong place (Harbor Freight) but the wheel dollies I bought I can barely move the car by myself.  The back end moves around with very little effort but the front end where all the weight is will barely budge.  I can move it if I put a jack under...

1972 Mach 1 Q code

Here in Lake Wylie SC just SW of Charlotte NC we got through it ok with just a lot of rain and some gusts of wind up to 30 mph. We were expecting it to be much worse. My thoughts and prayers are with those who did not fair so well. This was a devastating storm. I hope midlife is ok.

Hmmm this kinda throws a curve ball at my engine and rear end plans.  I was planning on running a solid flat tappet cam and 3:90 gears. :-/ :-/  I don't plan on drag racing the car so routine high rpms wouldn't be an issue.