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What is that radio from? It's doesn't match the construction of the 71-73 radios I've seen or can locate pictures of. Ford usually had a stamped identification number on the exterior of the unit, or possibly a sticker. That can help pinpoint what it was originally installed in and the correct...

That's in pretty rough shape. I'd try to find a good used one, they're out there. The basic wheel was used from 1970 through the mid-70s on millions of Ford cars. The pad, woodgrain and horn switch pad look okay. The horn switch underneath appears broken, but might be fixable.

I have 2.5" Hooker AeroChambers on my 71 and they're coming off over the winter. Not sure if it's just the dynamics of the entire system, or the turndowns by the valance, but it has a horrible resonance @ 2000 rpm. It gets worse after running the car for a while when the exhaust fully heat...

I use a phillips screwdriver to hold the pins in place while snapping on the clips.

Just like Stanglover said, they unscrew - they're doubled ended studs. I can't remember if I used the jam nut method or vice grips, it was 1991 the last time I did one of these. The image is from the Ford assembly manuals. You can get them in print, CD or USB. I bought the CD and saved it to...

The cover plate will come out when you remove the two sheetmetal screws from the inside, and the lower fasteners which are studs. They will unthread from the pedal hanger bracket. It's been over twenty years since I converted a drum car to discs, but there *may* be a spotweld or two holding it...

If you were converting to a factory booster and pedal, you can simply use a 7/16" drill bit to clean the threads out of the weld nuts on the pedal bracket. No need to remove it, just run the drill through. If you're using an aftermarket booster, then maybe a call to the manufacturer might be...

The problem with 14" tires today, is the limited selection of appropriate tire sizes. The largest 60 size 14" tire is a 245/60R14. IMO, the smaller sizes are too short and get lost in the larger wheel wells. The BFG is spec'd for a 7" rim, so you'll be fine. I ran them on 6" wheels back when we...

Simplest way to find out is to see if the engine has ever been out or apart. That should be fairly obvious as there will be signs such as missing clips, brackets, mismatched bolts etc. If it's never been out or apart, there is a near zero chance it's 189k.

Check the fit of your taillights against the new panel. There have been a couple reports of brackets welded in the wrong location. If not discovered until after the car is painted, makes for a PITA to fix.

No experience with that brand Those appear to be the same low price painted tanks that are sold under dozens of brands. I've installed several Spectra Premium tanks and the quality is excellent, and they come (or did at the time) galvanized like the factory tank. https://a.co/d/7yi5T6U

When the VIN number was generated (serialized), the final product was already known down to the very last option. Keep in mind that the cars would have had to have had the correct firewall, cowl and floor pan for AC vs non-AC, along with the 4V cars getting the staggered shock upper mounting...

I had two sportsroofs before getting an actual Mach 1. The first was just a primered travesty, the next one was nicely done up as a "Mock 1". I didn't correct people, as most just associate the sportsroof body style as only being a Mach 1.

The 73 mounts are a captured style, so there's no need to pin them like I did.

Agree with Tommy, that's a good cam, but you will need a little bit of gear. It's quite a bit larger than the CJ cam which was 205/220 There are a couple caveats. First, it's a flat tappet cam, which is like playing Russian Roulette these days. Second, you say your engine is all stock - I...

This might be the grommet you need. If you've already tried this one,t hen I'd be on the phone to Holley / Scott Drake to find out what you're supposed to use. https://www.npdlink.com/product/grommet-pcv-valve/105599?backurl=search/products?search_terms=pcv%2Bgrommet&top_parent=200001&year=

Yeah, his website is pretty bad. CHOCKOSTANG 1624 Chock Rd Murrayville, ILL 62668 217 882 2083

Did you try Chockostang? http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/

I did countersink the underside and tack welded the bolt to the bracket. The bushing is an off the shelf urethane sway bar end link bushing.

Can't find the specific part number in the MPC, but it looks like it's available. Might also try Dan at Chockostang. He rebuilds all the Ford PS gear, just not the Saginaw boxes. https://classicautoparts.com/power-steering-pump-shaft-bushing