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Glad you got it all sorted out (y)

For the fuel pump, you need to have the engine at #6 TDC on the compression stroke for the eccentric to be at it's highest point. Pop #6 plug out, stick your finger in the plug hole and bump the engine over with a remote starter witch until the pressure pushes your finger off. That should get...

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That's his friend's car, he posted a for sale ad here a couple months ago. @Stanglover https://7173mustangs.com/threads/1-owner-1971-mach-1-for-sale-in-sw-ontario-canada.43566/

You can use that yoke with a 1330/1310 conversion u-joint. Factory front u-joint is a 1310. The conversion joint is Spicer 5-134X.

Today's fuel doesn't do well with sitting around for years. The cautious approach is to disconnect the fuel system at the pump and run it off a tank of fresh fuel. At a minimum, drain the tank of the old fuel and blow the tank to pump line out with compressed air and carb cleaner. You can then...

The factory slip yoke would be a 28 spline for a 1310 u-joint. OD of the barrel will be 1.500. You can use a yoke for a C-4, T-5, AOD and 3 speed. For the cost of used, you're often better off getting a new yoke.

Welcome from CT. Agree with the others to not run any old gas through the fuel system. If you're unfamiliar with the steps of reviving a car that's sat, try watching some of the videos on YouTube by Thunderhead289, Pole Barn Garage, Junkyard Digs and Vice Grip Garage. You'll see that they all...

Balljoints contribute a lot of friction to the front suspension. If they are well "worn in" and rotate easily, it can contribute to the problem you're having. They don't have to be worn out and sloppy to cause this problem.

If compressed air won't work, you can pump it full of grease to force it out hydraulically.

351C driver's manifolds were changed for the 71 Mustang/Cougar due to the relocated clutch linkage pivot. Torino/Montego also used it 72~74. Passenger manifold is the same 70~74 for all applications. Casting number is simply the raw part, and it can be used for multiple applications with...

The 71 manual has an error in the datum to rear leaf shackle hole for the Mustang. That was corrected in the '72 manual. I added the Depew chassis drawing, which I believe was published in the collision reference books of the day. When I drew up my subframe connectors, I did run into some...

The manual door and quarter trim panels can be modified for the window switches. The factory parts had a cutout pattern on the back side molded/stamped into them. @Motorcity Mustang might have some quarter trims. Thanks @JPWally , I learned something new today!

72 & 73 verts all received an upgraded interior with the "deluxe" molded door panels, knitted vinyl buckets, deluxe color keyed seatbelts and the camera case dash panel trims with the chrome border. Some very late units received solid vinyl seats due to a supply issue with comfortweave...

1 - you can run whatever air cleaner you want 2- The factory 351/FMX driveshaft is 51 3/32" ctr to ctr of the u-joints, the one for the toploader is 50 13/16". That's "fairly" close and may work, depending upon the yoke you use. The FMX is 31 spline, the toploader is 28 spline. 3 - I...

First is a late 70s 351M/400 timing pointer Second part is the A-pillar to pedal support bracket. Third looks like radiator support fillers for 67-68 cars

Seems the application varies with the body style Coupe - D1ZZ-65222A44-A - 2 pc at quarter glass (NPD 222B08-3B) D1AZ-65222B08-A - 2 pc at A-pillars (NPD 222B08-2A) Sportsroof - D1ZZ-65222A44-A - 2 pc at quarter glass and 2 pc at A-pillars (NPD 222B08-3B)...

Our 71 XR7 had the four bolt upper arms on it when we bought it. I changed from 15X7 to 15X8 Magnums to when I bought new tires and the inside of the wheel would grind on the edge of the arm. Looks like the PO had trimmed the arm to clear the 15X7 that were on there. Swapped to the 3-bolt 70-73...

I don't see it mentioned, but don't forget to replace the valves with single groove units from Ferrea, Manley, etc. 3V is a port size in between the 2V and 4V. Great heads, bring your wallet. https://www.chiheads.com.au/thunder-from-down-under-chi-3v-cleveland/

I repaired the cowl from the bottom on two cars. With the dash out, it's fairly easy. For the latest one, since I work in sheet metal, I made an oversized plate with a round hole and a ring that I welded to it to recreate the vent hat. Trimmed the plate to fit the hole and welded it in place...