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"Ok! Mine is, in fact, a 1971 Mach 1, 351c, auto trans (c6). However, the Marti Report shows a 2 barrel carb. That’s throwing me off. Everything else seems to line up." It is not unusual for a previous owner (PO) to change out a 2 bbl intake for a 4 bbl intake. In fact, it was a popular upgrade.

There are several AOD adaptor shift rods on the market that you can use with your factory shift assembly.

Pretty nice looking '73. It's a shame the aftermarket undercoating is slathered on as thick as it is....undoubtedly hiding some rusty sections. But that's what they did back in the day....!

In the fall of 1970 during my freshman year in college I saw a 71 Mach 1 parked on campus and loved the styling. That remains true today.

Out of curiosity -- how are the door gaps? I agree with MikeGriese that a careful investigation with chassis measurements is needed.

While it appears to fairly acceptable on the topside, the underside gives me a worrisome feeling of caution. This one would require a close look underneath. Whatever thick goop was sprayed on could be hiding some serious floor-pan issues. I believe there is some visible rusty chunking in some...

In short, yes - get it checked and adjusted as required. The hardest part is finding someone who really understands alignment on vintage cars like the mustang. That's the really important part.

Not bad, but agree that there are quite a few 'head scratching "what was the thinking behind that"' items.

Vacuum leak would cause same behavior so might be worth checking. You mention new carb so checking around base gasket would be a start.

https://8and9inchfordrears.com/ I replaced my 3rd member on my 69 vert with new Trac Lok 3:55 last year. Pricing was reasonable and Alan was very good to work with.

I once had a similar situation that turned out to be a bad coil. When it got hot, engine stumbled & eventually died. It behaved like a fuel issue so it took awhile to figure out. Just something to check.

My previous 73 vert had a front end squeak that ended up being upper shock mount. 'Rubber' bushings were not keeping the shock centered and resulted in shock rod rubbing against the mount when the shock tilted. Polyurethane bushings did a better job of keeping things centered. Just something...

The car will operate fine without hood locks. My understanding has been if you opted for the ram air setup the hood locks were included. For most the hood locks are a desired aspect of the 'muscle car' visual appearance. It is highly recommended to have the stronger 'squared' hood springs with...

These days any decent local graphics shop should be able to make something up. Look for someone who makes up car show display boards. They should be able to laser cut vinyl decals using computer graphics programs.

Those are not factory aluminum wheel lug nuts, they are an aftermarket locking set (McGard?). I would agree for a top AACA award card, there are numerous inconsistencies. IMO might be a mid to high 30's, but an up close careful inspection would be advisable before purchase offer.

Looks like a good opportunity for a sight unseen purchase....NOT!

Better off just getting the wheel centered in the center of the fender opening -- not too far front or back. Unless you are driving an excessive distance the shop castor will not affect tire wear as much as bad toe-in or camber. Neg castor will typically create 'twitchy' steering feeling.

Hijack subjects aside, you will have to unfasten the well liner

IMO, pretty reasonable $$ for a rare car

If the battery load test is OK and the solenoid checks out OK, next step would be to check resistance on the starter cable from solenoid to starter. If wire is old & corroded, that could cause issues. Also, would be worthwhile to check the starter motor. If starter itself is corroded, gunked...