Front suspension loose, or just old?

[steves73]

Steering feels okay, normal amount of free play. On a sloped surface, sometimes car goes to the lower side and I have to pull it back to straight. Is there a part, when worn out, does only this one symptom?
Also, oil change places used to put grease into front suspension parts. Is this knowledge still common, or should I buy a grease gun?

 

[Sheriff41]

It's pretty normal for roads with extreme crowns to cause a car to pull to the low side. Most alignment caster settings compensate for a little crown since most roads have some for rain runoff.
You should probably buy a good grease gun and learn all the grease points on your suspension and driveline.

 

[steves73]

It's pretty normal for roads with extreme crowns to cause a car to pull to the low side. Most alignment caster settings compensate for a little crown since most roads have some for rain runoff.
You should probably buy a good grease gun and learn all the grease points on your suspension and driveline.

I should get alignment done, it has the feel like some members here have described as the settings for bias ply tires. I've seen the adjustments for radials here.

 

[giantpune]

Zerk fittings are still very much a thing on brand new equipment. Any lube joint worth going to will be able to hook up a grease gun to whatever grease fittings are on your car.

 

[mrgmhale]

I suggest getting a grease gun, whether you need new parts for the front suspension and/or an alignment or not. I used to set the positive caster on the passenger front wheel about 1/4 degree more positive than the left, as the caster angle is not a tire wearing angle, whereas the camber angle is a tire wearing angle. But, either approach works to offset road crown found on many if not most road surfaces.

As for lubricating the front end, back in the early 70s it not was unusual to hear a Mustang about 2 years old or older making a "squeak squeak" sound as it was rolling down a road. The cause, more often than not, was from the upper control arm bushings having dried out. For whatever reason ($$$), Ford decided not to install zerk fittings at the front and rear upper control arm mounting shaft. And once the factory lubrication was old, dried out, and gone, the infernal, never ending squeaking would begin. And it never got better. In time it would cause those bushings to wear out and required the bushings and or entire upper control arm to be replaced.

If a person caught the inadequate lubrication problem early enough, in theory he/she could remove the threaded plugs at the two ends of the upper control arm mounting shaft, and install some 90 degree Zerk fitting, lube the upper control arm bushings, and get on with life. But, that is only "the theory." And this is where a twist in the road come upon us...

For 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs (and Cougars and Falcons for that matter), the inner fender facing shock towers are too close to the front and rear of the upper control arm bushing mounting shaft to have enough room to allow the threaded plugs to be loosened far enough to be removed. Or so it seemed. Now then, I have seen where some folks would cut a hole in the shock tower to allow access to the Zerk plug, so Zerk fittings could be installed. As tempting as that may be, IT IS A BAD IDEA! The remaining metal of the shock tower will flex and over time the shock tower metal will crack - and now you have a costly repair facing you. Don't do that, please for the love of... (https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2w18k1) Okay, 'nuff said. Despite it being hard work to do, it is better to loosen the upper control arm mounting shaft from the vehicle, and then move the mounting shaft forward or back enough to get the clearance you need to remove the threaded plugs, then install the 90 degree Zerk fittings (90 degree fittings). Then, because of the tight spaces in there, I suggest lubing the upper control arm mounting shaft bushings via the new Zerk fittings before reattaching and tightening down the mounting bolts. And, because you were dinking with the front end, if you did have to loosen those mounting bolts, get the front end aligned very soon thereafter.

Now, there may be a better way for the 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs, Cougars, and Falcons (I know, no Cougar until 1967...), IF you are lucky enough to have enough room between the shock tower and the Zerk Fitting Plugs. Enough room for what? Enough room to do what we can do with the 1971 - 1973 Mustangs, Cougars (no Falcon after 1970). And what may that be? Feast your eyes on the image below!


So, what is that contraption? It is an upper control arm bushing Zerk installation kit. It has a fashionably thin and tiny Zerk removal and installation wrench, plus the needed 90 degree Zerk fitting adapters, and the extended length Zerk fittings! For those of us lucky enough to own a 1971 - 1973 Mustangs or Cougars, Ford redesigned the engine bay to accommodate the massive 429 engine (did I mean to say 429 CJ? Or at least Boss 429?). At that time the shock towers were made a bit wider as well, so now you can reach the upper control arm bushing threaded Zerk plugs, remove them, and install the Zerk fittings fairly easily. This capability alone, if for no other reason, is cause enough for me to opt to own a 71-73 Mustang/Cougar over the prior First Generation years. It is really great that we can now do this one enhancement so easily.

You can get this Scott Drake Zerk Fitting kit from CJ Pony Part,Summit Racing Jegs, and many other locations. And, before you pooh pooh this just because it is a Scott Drake item (I see haters once in a while, I am not a Scott Drake hater), take note that it has a almost full 5 star rating on the Summit Racing site (one person gave it only 4 stars, another only 3 stars). I encourage you to go to the Summit Racing site (below) and take the time to read the comments, as some have some neat tips on how to make this an easier job than not having their tips at hand.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-374714-sk?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgLOiBhC7ARIsAIeetVC7suzoTCdgfbZ4LYCn0hsNrRrFpe9PXhPpWMtH3lXbeoPKtZlDUFcaAqH0EALw_wcB

 

[steves73]

I suggest getting a grease gun, whether you need new parts for the front suspension and/or an alignment or not. I used to set the positive caster on the passenger front wheel about 1/4 degree more positive than the left, as the caster angle is not a tire wearing angle, whereas the camber angle is a tire wearing angle. But, either approach works to offset road crown found on many if not most road surfaces.

As for lubricating the front end, back in the early 70s it not was unusual to hear a Mustang about 2 years old or older making a "squeak squeak" sound as it was rolling down a road. The cause, more often than not, was from the upper control arm bushings having dried out. For whatever reason ($$$), Ford decided not to install zerk fittings at the front and rear upper control arm mounting shaft. And once the factory lubrication was old, dried out, and gone, the infernal, never ending squeaking would begin. And it never got better. In time it would cause those bushings to wear out and required the bushings and or entire upper control arm to be replaced.

If a person caught the inadequate lubrication problem early enough, in theory he/she could remove the threaded plugs at the two ends of the upper control arm mounting shaft, and install some 90 degree Zerk fitting, lube the upper control arm bushings, and get on with life. But, that is only "the theory." And this is where a twist in the road come upon us...

For 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs (and Cougars and Falcons for that matter), the inner fender facing shock towers are too close to the front and rear of the upper control arm bushing mounting shaft to have enough room to allow the threaded plugs to be loosened far enough to be removed. Or so it seemed. Now then, I have seen where some folks would cut a hole in the shock tower to allow access to the Zerk plug, so Zerk fittings could be installed. As tempting as that may be, IT IS A BAD IDEA! The remaining metal of the shock tower will flex and over time the shock tower metal will crack - and now you have a costly repair facing you. Don't do that, please for the love of... (https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2w18k1) Okay, 'nuff said. Despite it being hard work to do, it is better to loosen the upper control arm mounting shaft from the vehicle, and then move the mounting shaft forward or back enough to get the clearance you need to remove the threaded plugs, then install the 90 degree Zerk fittings (90 degree fittings). Then, because of the tight spaces in there, I suggest lubing the upper control arm mounting shaft bushings via the new Zerk fittings before reattaching and tightening down the mounting bolts. And, because you were dinking with the front end, if you did have to loosen those mounting bolts, get the front end aligned very soon thereafter.

Now, there may be a better way for the 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs, Cougars, and Falcons (I know, no Cougar until 1967...), IF you are lucky enough to have enough room between the shock tower and the Zerk Fitting Plugs. Enough room for what? Enough room to do what we can do with the 1971 - 1973 Mustangs, Cougars (no Falcon after 1970). And what may that be? Feast your eyes on the image below!
View attachment 76168
View attachment 76167
So, what is that contraption? It is an upper control arm bushing Zerk installation kit. It has a fashionably thin and tiny Zerk removal and installation wrench, plus the needed 90 degree Zerk fitting adapters, and the extended length Zerk fittings! For those of us lucky enough to own a 1971 - 1973 Mustangs or Cougars, Ford redesigned the engine bay to accommodate the massive 429 engine (did I mean to say 429 CJ? Or at least Boss 429?). At that time the shock towers were made a bit wider as well, so now you can reach the upper control arm bushing threaded Zerk plugs, remove them, and install the Zerk fittings fairly easily. This capability alone, if for no other reason, is cause enough for me to opt to own a 71-73 Mustang/Cougar over the prior First Generation years. It is really great that we can now do this one enhancement so easily.

You can get this Scott Drake Zerk Fitting kit from CJ Pony Part,Summit Racing Jegs, and many other locations. And, before you pooh pooh this just because it is a Scott Drake item (I see haters once in a while, I am not a Scott Drake hater), take note that it has a almost full 5 star rating on the Summit Racing site (one person gave it only 4 stars, another only 3 stars). I encourage you to go to the Summit Racing site (below) and take the time to read the comments, as some have some neat tips on how to make this an easier job than not having their tips at hand.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-374714-sk?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgLOiBhC7ARIsAIeetVC7suzoTCdgfbZ4LYCn0hsNrRrFpe9PXhPpWMtH3lXbeoPKtZlDUFcaAqH0EALw_wcB

I remember that squeaking sound on my father's 73 Cougar. It became my car when I turned 17. I was spraying oil everywhere in there trying to quiet whatever it was. Thank you for solving that mystery.

 

[mrgmhale]

Yeah. That constant squeaking is enough to drive a persons nuts.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

My previous 73 vert had a front end squeak that ended up being upper shock mount. 'Rubber' bushings were not keeping the shock centered and resulted in shock rod rubbing against the mount when the shock tilted. Polyurethane bushings did a better job of keeping things centered. Just something to keep in mind in combination with squeaky A-arms.

 

[steves73]

I suggest getting a grease gun, whether you need new parts for the front suspension and/or an alignment or not. I used to set the positive caster on the passenger front wheel about 1/4 degree more positive than the left, as the caster angle is not a tire wearing angle, whereas the camber angle is a tire wearing angle. But, either approach works to offset road crown found on many if not most road surfaces.

As for lubricating the front end, back in the early 70s it not was unusual to hear a Mustang about 2 years old or older making a "squeak squeak" sound as it was rolling down a road. The cause, more often than not, was from the upper control arm bushings having dried out. For whatever reason ($$$), Ford decided not to install zerk fittings at the front and rear upper control arm mounting shaft. And once the factory lubrication was old, dried out, and gone, the infernal, never ending squeaking would begin. And it never got better. In time it would cause those bushings to wear out and required the bushings and or entire upper control arm to be replaced.

If a person caught the inadequate lubrication problem early enough, in theory he/she could remove the threaded plugs at the two ends of the upper control arm mounting shaft, and install some 90 degree Zerk fitting, lube the upper control arm bushings, and get on with life. But, that is only "the theory." And this is where a twist in the road come upon us...

For 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs (and Cougars and Falcons for that matter), the inner fender facing shock towers are too close to the front and rear of the upper control arm bushing mounting shaft to have enough room to allow the threaded plugs to be loosened far enough to be removed. Or so it seemed. Now then, I have seen where some folks would cut a hole in the shock tower to allow access to the Zerk plug, so Zerk fittings could be installed. As tempting as that may be, IT IS A BAD IDEA! The remaining metal of the shock tower will flex and over time the shock tower metal will crack - and now you have a costly repair facing you. Don't do that, please for the love of... (https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x2w18k1) Okay, 'nuff said. Despite it being hard work to do, it is better to loosen the upper control arm mounting shaft from the vehicle, and then move the mounting shaft forward or back enough to get the clearance you need to remove the threaded plugs, then install the 90 degree Zerk fittings (90 degree fittings). Then, because of the tight spaces in there, I suggest lubing the upper control arm mounting shaft bushings via the new Zerk fittings before reattaching and tightening down the mounting bolts. And, because you were dinking with the front end, if you did have to loosen those mounting bolts, get the front end aligned very soon thereafter.

Now, there may be a better way for the 65 1/2 - 70 Mustangs, Cougars, and Falcons (I know, no Cougar until 1967...), IF you are lucky enough to have enough room between the shock tower and the Zerk Fitting Plugs. Enough room for what? Enough room to do what we can do with the 1971 - 1973 Mustangs, Cougars (no Falcon after 1970). And what may that be? Feast your eyes on the image below!
View attachment 76168
View attachment 76167
So, what is that contraption? It is an upper control arm bushing Zerk installation kit. It has a fashionably thin and tiny Zerk removal and installation wrench, plus the needed 90 degree Zerk fitting adapters, and the extended length Zerk fittings! For those of us lucky enough to own a 1971 - 1973 Mustangs or Cougars, Ford redesigned the engine bay to accommodate the massive 429 engine (did I mean to say 429 CJ? Or at least Boss 429?). At that time the shock towers were made a bit wider as well, so now you can reach the upper control arm bushing threaded Zerk plugs, remove them, and install the Zerk fittings fairly easily. This capability alone, if for no other reason, is cause enough for me to opt to own a 71-73 Mustang/Cougar over the prior First Generation years. It is really great that we can now do this one enhancement so easily.

You can get this Scott Drake Zerk Fitting kit from CJ Pony Part,Summit Racing Jegs, and many other locations. And, before you pooh pooh this just because it is a Scott Drake item (I see haters once in a while, I am not a Scott Drake hater), take note that it has a almost full 5 star rating on the Summit Racing site (one person gave it only 4 stars, another only 3 stars). I encourage you to go to the Summit Racing site (below) and take the time to read the comments, as some have some neat tips on how to make this an easier job than not having their tips at hand.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-374714-sk?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgLOiBhC7ARIsAIeetVC7suzoTCdgfbZ4LYCn0hsNrRrFpe9PXhPpWMtH3lXbeoPKtZlDUFcaAqH0EALw_wcB

I found these fittings in the upper control arms. I'll buy a grease gun if these will work for me. New tires has made the steering feel better, but the tire place doesn't want to work on old cars.

 

[Sheriff41]

Always wipe your grease fittings off with a rag before using the grease gun. You don't want to force any dirt into the fitting and cause a clog. Also, only 2-3 pumps of grease on those should be enough. Your grease gun will either stop pumping or you'll hear the grease squeezing out behind the control arm.

 

[351c1971]

You might consider using synthetic grease (usually red or green marine). It really works well on upper control arms.