Strut rod help needed!

[mach1dave]

Hi all!
Wondered if someone, who knows their castor is set properly, could tell me the measurement from the face of the big nut to the end of the strut, under bumper side not engine bay! I know all struts are not identical in length, but It's just to get me in the right ball park for the ride to the alignment shop. Can't go with the settings before removal, as apparently I've been running with neg castor for the last few years! Thanks guys!

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

Better off just getting the wheel centered in the center of the fender opening -- not too far front or back. Unless you are driving an excessive distance the shop castor will not affect tire wear as much as bad toe-in or camber. Neg castor will typically create 'twitchy' steering feeling.

 

[Sheriff41]

I agree with Bill. As long as the strut rods are bolted in it will be safe to drive the car to the alignment shop. It may pull and not re-center but the alignment specialist should take care of those issues with correct alignment settings.

 

[Hemikiller]

Since I was under the car today, I did a quick measurement and from the backside of the nut to the control arm front face was 17 7/8" or so.

Having done a bunch of homebrew alignments, you can set the camber with a level pressed against the rim. The toe in is simply make sure you have 1/8" or so toe in. Use a tape measure from tread to tread.

 

[mach1dave]

Thanks for the replies guys!
HEMIKILLER, I have got a camber tool that you can place on the wheel hub, and I have plates to lock the setting in. I have set camber to 1/2 a degree neg, so quite happy with that. I did have a go at setting the castor myself with the aid of a small plumb-bob and a degrees scale (please see picture!), but very hard to get your head right in to see because of the lower control arm. I think I got the setting in the right range! I set it so the plumb bob point was approx 1/4 inch in from front of lower ball joint thread, so I know I have a small amount of positive castor.