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Flood damage is an instant "total it" to the insurance guys. I had a couple trucks get whacked in the hurricane. When I called up to make a claim, the very first question is "was there a flood". If you say yes, they end the questionnaire and hop right to the "its totaled" workflow. There...

Yep, I made a bash script that nukes the watermarks. And conveniently enough, some PDF viewers will do it. Some of the manuals are created with multiple layers. There's one called "watermark". You can untick the box and the PDF viewer will not display it.

Is insurance letting you keep the car, or are you buying it back? I know I checked the box on my Hagerty insurance where if its totaled, I get the money and to keep the car without having to buy it back. There's probably a lot of parts on the totaled one that would make a lot of people around...

The foot part of it doesn't look like any 73 mustang pedal I've seen. Usually the stamped metal part does not have a flat surface. Maybe look to see if you can find a part number stamped on it anywhere? Anyways, here's the brake pedals from a 71-73. They're the same length. The push rod...

I hook up the mechanical oil and temp gauges before I prime the oil system and leave them connected while I break in the cam.

I wouldn't go through the trouble to install a second one permanently. I did hook up a second gauge to make sure my main one was reading correctly. I removed the sending unit in the top, rear of the block, installed a tee, and installed the sending unit. Then in the other side of the tee, a...

Yep, the gap between the left side of the page and the holes is narrower than on the right side. They printed it up and tried to cut on the dotted line to remove the "this is not official, its a reproduction..." disclaimer.

Its not really a ton of work. Just a bunch of little things. You can have it torn apart to where you're looking at the timing set in the engine in a couple hours. If everything was clean and shiny, you could have it back together in a couple more hours. The scope creep will make it drag out...

I'd leave the radiator in the car, but tape a piece of cardboard over the back side to prevent damaging it while you work there. You can take it out if you want. Either way, its gonna get drained. Remove the fan shroud, fan, belts, water pump pulley, alternator/AC/power steering brackets...

Here's the setup I use for my fuel inlet into my carb. Its a hard metal preformed line, and the compression fitting that fits that line and gives something like a 6an thread so you can screw on different things. I use a little hand held pipe cutter to cut the steel line. But it sounds like...

Proper hose clamps also usually go on lines that have a flare the hose goes over. If you dont want to flare the ends, you can use a compression fitting. Its got a little copper ring that gets smooshed around the hard line and seals up well. I've used that setup a lot in pressurized fuel lines...

The long brake line is a lot easier with the transmission and driveshaft out of the car. I do think at the stage you're at, replacing the fuel line is the right call. Its probably easier to replace it than to clean all the crud out of your old one. I wouldn't sweat the vapor one, TBH. Only...

I would suggest flaring the ends of the line to help the rubber seal up. If you cant manage that, a replacement steel line is not overly expensive nor hard to install. Neither of the supply or return lines are pressurized with the stock setup. You just need to hold back the weight of the gas...

I swapped my 73 auto to a manual, using a malwood clutch pedal and hydraulic master cylinder. I did it all in the car, without removing the pedal hanger, dash, steering column, or driver's seat. I did have the instrument cluster already pulled out for something else. That made it a lot...

It left the factory with a 9". No telling what has been bubba'd up in the 50 years since then. Best to get under it and look.

I have a couple. A cheapo amazon one, it actually costed negative money. It lists for $160. They sold it for $7, and paid you $30 to leave a fake review. I scored one, then the seller got nuked for their shenanigans. :D I also have a nice milwaukee one that runs like $450. The milwaukee...

The stuff works amazingly. But nowhere near as fast as minutes. I have to let things soak a day, two if they're dirty. Its entirely possible though that you got a batch of bad product in the sample. Its worth giving it a second try. Especially if you already have 5 gallons.

I wasn't saying your post was being that guy. I was saying when this hypothetical situation comes up, just let a stranger call it a fastback or a sportsroof or whatever. You both know exactly what they're talking about. As far as being what ford called it, sure. That was the marketing guys...

Its not worth turning into the "well ackchyully" know-it-all guy over. Colloquially, these were known as fastbacks for decades. If somebody calls it a fastback, you know exactly what they mean.

I would say suspend the spindles, or stand them up in such a way that the ground surface is not submerged in vinegar or whatever other concoction you come up with. And as far as "bearing surface", the bearings don't spin on the spindle. The bearing race sits on the spindle, and the rollers...