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I would not run either carb without rebuilding it first. I would prefer you get a decent square bore vac secondary or dbl pumper if you have a manual trans from ebay. The going price is abt $200 I just bought one. The carb I bought was off a running engine but I pulled it apart and rebuilt...

Tail light gaskets are available as reproductions. Check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply for the tail light retaining bolts he is a vendor on this site (OMS). Paul

2nd look Im not sure of the purpose of 933? Paul

looks ok If u are running points and dont have the resistor wire than just get a coil with built in resistance. Paul

Sooo 931 Coil + Bat is the exciting wire to + coil and is the resistance wire for points that come from run position on original ign switch. 934 Ign Switch Power B+ is main + Bat power to Ign switch. 932 is Ign Switch ACC Position wire. Dont jump 931. Jump 934 from ign swittch to start...

Just FYI The sign of a flat cam is backfiring. Usually its an ignition problem though. Paul

someone posted an overlay comparison awhile back that showed the 71 mustang was abt two inches longer and two inches higher than a 70 Mustang. Jason is right its the hood that hides the cowl and wipers that makes the car appear so long. A 70 has a hood abt seven inches shorter. Paul

Sorry no help Jason But makes me happy that all those extra pieces that have nothing to do with "Go Fast" got tossed decades ago! (No Concourse Here) Now I do recognize some of the wire connectors I have that are not connected to anything. Cheers Paul

Jason There will be many ppl with opinions on the subject. I think a mention about how the car will be driven with an expected rev limit and budget may be in order to narrow down what you are after. Paul Edit; Reread the post perhaps you said enough

Digging around in the shed today and foun a couple photos of my second drag car at Baylands in Fremont CA. 73 Firebird Formula Street/Strip Pontiac 455 400 heads six pack intake super T10 411 12 Bolt

links http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mump-0610-ford-mustang-alignment/ http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-diy-wheel-alignment Paul

My vinyl top trim was also missing. From what I could gather there were several holes drilled around the outline of the trim mostly in the corners (top of A pillars for sure) and something like "nail heads" were welded around the outline for the trim to atatch (like the F & R glass trim...

On Ebay Bump

I remember some of those solenoids were adjustable by the hex on the end of the actuator shaft? Paul

Is for A/C when activated IMO. But I need BU on this from other forum members. Paul

I was just going to loosen the nuts at the spring under the car to relieve the tension. Will this work too? Yes, but Faster to do like I said you need only just a bit of slack. Paul

I pulled the brake cable on each rear and clamped it from returning with vice grips and then replaced the unit no problem. Paul

Yea I just installed a replacement last week I got from ebay as I had the same issue. The e brake assembly is not serviceable IMO Hit up Don @ OMS for a replacement Was a 1 hr fix Paul

I'm selling my B & M Megashifter on ebay that was used in my 73 with FMX. http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-Megashifter-/232034166243 I put a man trans in so It's no longer needed and it worked well! Includes; Shifter T Handle Shifter Floor Mounting Plate (Done By PO) New Shift Cable +...