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I’m also insured with Hagerty but it is underwritten by Progressive.

I guess it boils down to the spring strength of your chosen pressure plate as to which clutch system you would want to use.

She looks fabulous! How bout under the hood eh? That’s half the fun! Congrats on a job well done! Hope that Brit wasn’t too bummed out!

I upgraded my 72 Mach 1 with an AOD from a C6. I preferred to go with a 4 speed toploader not only because it is a virtually indestructible but a stickshift is a built-in anti-theft device and most of all......a hot rod should have a stick! I costed all the parts and compared them with a...

I stand corrected. When I purchased my 72, it had, unbeknownst to me, 73 frame pedestals and 73 flange style mounts. The Prothane mounts looked exactly like the 73 mounts I pulled out. The guy that installed my H-pipe exhaust system told me that they were worn out since the edge of the flange...

Hi. I had an aftermarket harness installed but the only practical place to mount the fuse box was the glove box. It takes up about half the space but I don’t have a whole lot to put in it. I went with Autometer analog replacement tach, fuel gauge, and mechanical speedo and the oil, temp and...

Prothane 6-503-BL Black Urethane Motor Mount Kit https://a.co/d/e6XCcY7 Here is a new engine mount for your 73. Nobody makes the frame pedestal that I know of.

Clockworks did mine for $200. I installed it but it did not work. I removed it and bench tested it and suspected that maybe there was a polarity issue (swapped positive and negative connections). I contacted clockworks and they would have to redo it because if the polarity were reversed, it...

Hello handy Randy! I say that because will need to be handy on all points when you work on yore mustang! Anyway Howdee from the Lone Star State!!

There is a small tab on the block just below the alternator that is threaded to 5/16 I believe that is the intended spot for the block ground. You'll see it in the pic just below the red alternator wire....the blue tab from the block and the ground is attached.

Yes!! I’ve been jumping up and down over this for some time. The repro motors no matter where you bought them are heater motors for cars with no A/C. They have reverse polarity so the red wire has to be attached to ground and the black to the fan resistor. It will push air but not nearly...

Cmon guys, let's not snipe at each other. We're supposed to help. I went with the Performer because it had the lower profile from the taller RPM air gap intake. The lower profile was necessary for my hood to close and mate with the RAM Air system. My build also used Trickflow aluminum 2V...

Another welcome from Texas!

Welcome aboard and Howdee from the Lone Star State!

Howdy and welcome from Texas!

Addendum to my earlier post. If there is a significant voltage drop when ignition is initiated, that is indicative of an internal short in the starter.

A new starter doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a good starter. Suggest you have it tested or better yet exchange it for another. Just make sure your engine block is solidly grounded to the frame and from there to your negative pole on yore battery. What kind of starter did you buy? Once you’ve...

Make sure you keep your old blower motor and squirrel cage!! The motors on the market now are the heater only type and have a much lower RPM. I got some pushback from CAA on this. That kid I talked to knew better than I did about that and insisted that it was the correct motor. Anyway, On...

Another welcome from the Lone Star State! I’m reminded of my 78 Mustang coupe that I picked up in 1980 when I was 17. A 4 banger 4 speed stick and NO A/C! I couldn’t outrun a chihuahua dog!….but it was fun to drive

If your last question was not answered, the vacuum line from the schnorkel damper motor routes underneath the air cleaner to the bimetallic sensor that should be mounted inside the air cleaner. The sensor has two vacuum stubs. So the other stub vacuum line goes to the tree on the back of the...