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I do not. I do remember as a kid popping them off of cars in the junkyard and pocketing them. I had a wall in my parent's garage with tons of them stuck in the drywall. When we moved out and I took them all down (where they went ???) my dad was pissed that I messed up the wall. Oops...

Your car does not look that bad, it runs and drives and does not appear to have any serious rust. While it lacks a lot of desirable options it does have Ram Air and a fold down which are great ones. I'm in MI and would expect it to be priced around $25k here. Oh, and it is a great color combo...

Buying used engines is tough because you never can trust what your being told, so you have to disassemble everything. If you do that, and everything looks legit, are you going to put it back together as-is and run it? Nope. I try to steer clear of advertised "running" engines and tell myself...

Are you planning on going through the 460 before using it? Off the top of my head swapping to the 460 would be: Engine mounts Trans crossmember (what does the RV trans tailshaft look like?) Shifter Trans cooler Exhaust I would have to agree with tommyk- a cam and rear end ratio/ diff change...

Not really a definitive answer, but at least you can find some pictures of the different flavors of manifolds https://www.mustangtek.com/exhaust/Exhaust.html

Have you tried Don @Ohio Mustang or Mike (Motorcitymustang)?

Things that can increase hot starting effort: Higher cranking compression due to engine modifications Increased ambient heat in the starter (as Chuck mentions) from headers Increased electrical resistance (old cables, loose connections etc.) Exceesive initial ignition timing I'm sure I've...

And my spelling too!

Apparently my google skills suck. Universal molding fastener

Not specifically 71-73 related, but I know that I should be able to find a couple of these on Ebay or Amazon but I can't figure out what they are called...

Maybe try finding a cable from a Ford truck? https://www.npdlink.com/1948-1979-ford-truck/drivetrain/speedometer-cable-and-related I would also poke around on Rockauto for different truck cables, some of the applications have pictures of the ends. They are in the 'Interior' section...

Have you tried Mike (Motorcity Mustangs I think?) or Don@ OMS? Both part out cars and might be able to help.

Welcome to the site. I'm a Langley as well, I don't come across too many with that surname. Your work looks very good, car should look great when its finished! -Matt

If casting numbers and date codes aren't a major factor then its just cost right? Is the repair going to cost more than buying another head?

You actually supported them? Overacheiver. Mine dangled free for at least a year. At that point there was no packing material left. Ah glasspacks...

No problem!

Not of that part exactly, but shows where it attaches to the LH door pillar and the support for the front of the pedal hanger.

Its a support for the LH side of the underdash structure. I have a pitcure somewhere of it installed, let me look for it...

The end of the OP driveshaft is tapered and the socket in the end of the distributor should have a matching taper on it to help the shaft find the socket in the end of the distributor. Sometimes you have to gently push the distributor down while rotating the engine to get the hexes to line up...

Doing anything to that car would open the door to all kinds of liability,.,,