Good price for a 351 block and 4v heads?

[Zach]

Hey, currently have a non original 73 block and 2v heads. Looking around for an earlier block and better heads that will be a better rebuild candidate and have a spare block to run the car with. I’m not a ford guy so I’m not sure how hard 351s are to come by and what they are priced around. Found this on the ol facebook, looks like it just is the empty block with heads, hooker comps, weiand dual carb. Intake and headers would probably get sold, don’t need them. Lemme know if I should pursue this or not or give me better ideas, appreciate all the help you guys give here.

Price is 2800, haven’t questioned the seller further for potential cam, rockers, pistons, condition, etc etc. listed as a 71 4v Cleveland, nothing else.

What would you guys pay for a a 351 essentially. Thanks fellas.

 

[72MustangSprint]

You could probably find a complete running engine for that price and the 1980’s are calling for that tunnel ram intake

 

[Zach]

You could probably find a complete running engine for that price and the 1980’s are calling for that tunnel ram intake

Noted lol, would make a good step stool at least.

 

[72MustangSprint]

Here is one from fleabay. Price is a little high

 

[Zach]

I should add another plus is that it’s within 10 minutes of my house. So I don’t have to worry about shipping. Mostly don’t care if it’s a running engine or not I plan on making a 408 myself eventually, so it’ll be off to a machine shop to clean it up.

 

[detritusmaximus]

I should add another plus is that it’s within 10 minutes of my house. So I don’t have to worry about shipping. Mostly don’t care if it’s a running engine or not I plan on making a 408 myself eventually, so it’ll be off to a machine shop to clean it up.

In that case, just find a good block and crank. And spend the good money on the heads you want with someone willing to guarantee the heads aren't cracked. Open chamber 4V heads are reasonably cheap. A late build 71 4V could have open chamber heads and it seems ALL 71 and later 4V heads have the dot, regardless of chamber shape/size, so only actually seeing the chamber shape is a guarantee if you are dead set on closed chamber heads. Even then you have to watch out for worn out blocks and cracked heads.

And yes, a good running engine can be running with cracked heads.

 

[Sheriff41]

Why not use the 73 block, build the block with the earlier flat top pistons, and buy a nice set of 4V heads? The 73 block is strong enough and, once built, you shouldn't need a spare block.

 

[Billw69]

I saw that block for sale last month, and passed because the price was too high. After talking to the guy it seemed as if he sat down with a summit racing catalogue and visually put together the components to make a racing motor. It would be easier and cheaper (for mamy reasons) to shop for the correct parts and assemble the motor you want. I live about an hour away from him too but I felt he's too high on the price, and unless your building a gasser to drive to back to the 50's you'd end up going thru the whole process again.
Just my two cents.........

Btw, I have 351C bare block I'd sell ya much cheaper.

 

[basstrix]

Your 73 block should be a D2AE casting. In general, the D2 has slightly thinner cylinder walls as compared to the D0AE block. What is your block currently bored to and what are you wanting to do with it? For the cost of those FB parts, you could sleeve all 8 cylinders on your block and still have a lot of $$ left over.

 

[basstrix]

You could probably find a complete running engine for that price and the 1980’s are calling for that tunnel ram intake

David Frieburger loves the tunnel ram and has done some dyno comparisons with them on Engine Masters. I'm slowly piecing together the parts to put one on a big block for a ranchero.

 

[Zach]

I saw that block for sale last month, and passed because the price was too high. After talking to the guy it seemed as if he sat down with a summit racing catalogue and visually put together the components to make a racing motor. It would be easier and cheaper (for mamy reasons) to shop for the correct parts and assemble the motor you want. I live about an hour away from him too but I felt he's too high on the price, and unless your building a gasser to drive to back to the 50's you'd end up going thru the whole process again.
Just my two cents.........

Btw, I have 351C bare block I'd sell ya much cheaper.

Good to know thanks.

David Frieburger loves the tunnel ram and has done some dyno comparisons with them on Engine Masters. I'm slowly piecing together the parts to put one on a big block for a ranchero.

I don’t hate them, but I like clean hoods a lot more.

Thanks guys I’ll pass on it, main reason I want a second working block is so the car doesn’t have to be parked. Planning on doing most of it by hand, just like everything else on the car so it’ll take me a while for a build.

 

[mjlan]

Buying used engines is tough because you never can trust what your being told, so you have to disassemble everything. If you do that, and everything looks legit, are you going to put it back together as-is and run it? Nope.

I try to steer clear of advertised "running" engines and tell myself I'm just looking for a core to rebuild. If I were budgeting around here in SE Michigan I wouldn't want to spend more than $2k for a core engine (complete engine with all the tins/ accessories etc.) and a pair of uesable CC heads. There are usually heads around for $500-$1k or so advertised as good; and complete, core 2V engines are around for under a $1k. Good shopping and I might be able to find a nice used 4V aluminum intake for under the budget...

My $0.02.

 

[c9zx]

At a minimum invest in a bore gauge. For me, a block that is already +.030 is a no go. Obviously, I look for standard bore blocks with no visible damage in the bores. Good luck with the hunt. Chuck

 

[basstrix]

Good to know thanks.


I don’t hate them, but I like clean hoods a lot more.

I wouldn't hold it against you if you did hate them and I don't mind driving a throwback from the 80's I will say, that when I see pictures of the hair styles and clothing we wore back then, it does make be laugh a little.

To your point about the hood, I have an extra hood that I'll use to cut up, when the time comes. I'm not a fan of butchering up good sheet metal.

Frieburger seems to get a little more power out of them on the type of engine builds he tests.

 

[72MustangSprint]

I wouldn't hold it against you if you did hate them and I don't mind driving a throwback from the 80's I will say, that when I see pictures of the hair styles and clothing we wore back then, it does make be laugh a little.

To your point about the hood, I have an extra hood that I'll use to cut up, when the time comes. I'm not a fan of butchering up good sheet metal.

Frieburger seems to get a little more power out of them on the type of engine builds he tests.

Back in the day we just drove them with no hood and let the tunnel ram stick out

 

[Don C]

They are not easy to find. I paid $1,000 for a Q code 4-bolt engine, a couple of years ago, that had been stripped down, had standard bore, and I drove 180 miles (one direction) to pick it up. I'm like you, wasn't interested in anything other than the block and heads, had to take the crankshaft, piston, rods, etc. with it.