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What engine and intake manifold are you using?

You are right, messed that theory up! I've also heard that special was early production. It could be that it was pre-release or PPAP work that would have been scrapped if there were issues but used if they were good.

Thanks for sharing your project. Have you scaled it yet to see how your weight distribution is looking? Maybe that would justify moving the oil tank to a more user-friendly location...

Whoever had my 71 before me 'fixed' the wiring. Tracking down electrical gremlins is not high on my fun-to-do list. Glad your issue was relatively straight forward to address!

The points can't tolerate battery voltage for extended periods of time so when the key is in 'run' the coil is powered through a resistor wire to lower the ignition primary voltage. There should be a plug on the 'S' post of the solenoid- this 'S' post is energized when the solenoid is closed and...

So the starter motor spins the engine fine it just won't fire and start running? Are you getting any cylinders to fire? If yes are they maybe sneezing out of the carb or popping into the exhaust? When you say "it shut off," do you mean the engine stalled on its own, or was the ignition turned off?

Mike (Motorcity Mustang) is by the airport and has a bunch of 429 cars, he may have a spare 4-spd driveshaft...

Well, I have finally got this running again. I had three issues- 1) failing starter that was drawing WAY too much juice, 2) battery with dead cell that would show 12.7V but drop to 9.x when cranking. Maybe killed by the starter. I didn't notice the low voltage during cranking until I happened...

Yessir still have this car! Thanks! -Matt

So you want an automatic OD trans instead of a manual OD trans? The newer auto will require extensive electronics, you would need a standalone controller (or if your 427W is EFI something integrated with that), not sure if anybody makes one or not. Seems like a lot of work but somebody has...

I am pretty confident I had the timing close but using the plug to verify is a good trick. Thanks!

I drove my car into my garage in the fall of '21 after getting it running and driving with a new-to-the-car 460/ C-6 combination. The engine was out of a different car so it had a T-sump road race pan on it, and there was some significant contact with the Hooker headers that was kind of solved...

That's neat information to have!

This is a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb, the arrows point to the float adjustment screws/ nuts. Under them is a needle and seat that admit fuel to the bowl when the float level drops an pulls the needle off of its seat. As Hemikiller suggests, if you have no fuel spraying from the squirter...

I have a title but not in my name, never got around to transferring it.

Yeah, it wasn't easy to find, my bad. I am flexible to some degree on that number as well.....

Just confirming so don't get offended- you are pulling a vacuum on the crankcase right?

Is it possible that you have excessive crankcase pressure? Maybe the oil slinger got left out when the timing chain set was changed? Just throwing some ideas out there since you've already covered things that I would think of...

Anybody even remotely interested?

I couldn't find used deluxe door panel cups that weren't brittle and dried out or beat up from being removed from the old panel. These are reproduced. Don @ OMS or Mike @MotorCityMustangs could probably help you with the other stuff.