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For troubleshooting purposes, you've confirmed the rear diff has oil. Next, I suggest you check the pinion for end play. WIth the transmission in neutral and emergency brake set, grab the pinion yoke and rotate it back and forth. Pay attention to the forward/backward motion of the yoke...

I put one of those up in my buddies back yard. He was letting me store my bass boat. In Phoenix, we get these microburst storms....A fairly strong one came along and that thing ended up on the neighbor's roof! It used corkscrew anchors and turnbuckles to cinch it down. It looked like a couple...

I ran for a board of directors position for similar reason.

I'm wondering if the left front galley plug was left out. I would think there would be a lot of oil flowing in that area if it was. You should be able to see the oil flowing by looking down into the distributor hole while spinning the pump (if that plug is missing). It's a fast/easy check to...

As has been implied or stated, it sounds like a pinion bearing. Get that checked ASAP as it will destroy the ring & pinion if it hasn't damaged already (assuming that's what it is).

I could use a couple of those on my Ranchero. I'm not sure if they weld in or crimp in place....at least the ones that Im thinking of. They have a square profile and twist out if there's much corrosion on the screw.

Sounds like you haven't run the pump long enough. Run it with a drill for a minute, then rotate the crank 90 degrees and repeat. It's probably just filling up the lifter galley on the left side.

Where is the gauge connected and how long did you run it? Here's a diagram of the oil system.

Was it an ACME thread on the rod you used? Good move on the thrust bearing.

I've used this style. I've had problems with the actual tool malfunctioning (because the one I bought is cheap), but overall, it works and has much lower risk of slipping off the spring (and causing injury or damage).

I had no problem installing a set of 6915's on mine. I'm running a C6. The right header collector is close to the trans, but clears.

That clamp somewhat resembles the clamps used with metrology tooling...

I have an aftermarket I need to install and have been dreading this step. Are there any welds that need to be cut to ease the straightening/recurving process? I vaguely recall Dave from North Carolina saying something about this. Would like to see the tacks you added along each edge.

I ended up with the following, after re-adjusting. I'll drive it a bit and check again. L Camber: -0.3 L Caster: +3.0 R Camber: -0.2 R Caster +3.0 3mm (1/8") toe in.

You might try doing some research into "R12 replacement options". There are some approved replacements out there. A friend, in the HVAC business, recommended I look at Hot Shot-2.

I used Gates 31720 with a flip open cap but I trimmed down the tabs to fit under the flip cap.

That should be a really cool project! Hope you keep us posted on your progress with it. Here's one that popped up out my way. Would love to get something like this, but I've already got too many irons in the fire.

Here's the alternate...says it's for Montego and Torino with power steering...lists some others, as well. There's something similar for other models having manual steering.

Thanks for the insights. When I was replacing the Idler, I set the two side by side and after install, A quick visual confirmed the Center Link was running horizontally and square to the front-rear axis of the car. The attached diagram is representative of what my car has for Idler/Center Link...

The new Idler came in a rebuild kit I bought from a member of this forum. I've already thrown away the bag it came in, but its geometry matches what I removed, along with the Steering Arm. It has a PN 3355-A on the arm. The bushing on the Center Link has the same PN as a Moog bushing I have...