The hood seems too warped?

[torbsim]

When I realigned the canopy on the Mach 1 (which was a terrible job), I noticed that the canopy was very warped. As far as I know, it is not a reproduction and is the original 73 hood. Is this the reason why it bulges so much? It doesn't bother me too much, but if there is a way to “fix” it, I would, of course, do it. The gap is already very high, see pictures

 

[rvrtrash]

That's pretty common. The hood is so long, and relatively thin, if your hood hinges are worn or stiff it will bow the hood in the middle from repeated closing. First step is to lube your hinge points or replace the hinges. Next, take it to a body shop. They should be able to flex it back into shape. I've heard some have been able to take the hood off the car, support it at the front and back, and press down at the high point of the curve, but you might wind up with it being wavy if not careful. Hopefully others that have done it will chime in.

 

[giantpune]

Can confirm. My hood fit good. Then one day I tried to close the hood, with the hinges very stiff. I deformed the hood, and would have folded it in half if I hadn't stopped trying to close it.

I'm not sure what the correct method for lubricating the hinges is. I open the hood about half way, then spray silicon around both sides on all the pivot points on both hinges. And then work the hood up and down a couple times. That seems to do the trick. No more hood trying to fold in half.

And to take some of the bend out, I just left the hood installed, and opened it "extra far". Pushing up on it the opposite direction I was pushing on it that bowed it in the first place.

 

[tony-muscle]

It is not uncommon and if you have a fiberglass hood the warp is much worst even with very soft springs.

 

[Bentworker]

Normal aftermarket hood. They have too much crown. Can be flattened but it is best done before paint, not after.

 

[MikeGriese]

Normal aftermarket hood. They have too much crown. Can be flattened but it is best done before paint, not after.

It's not limited to reproduction hoods. Original hoods bow too.

Usually they can be coaxed back into shape. In extreme cases, you will have to cut the welds to the inner structure, straighten everything, and then reweld. That's more labor than it's worth unless you have a car with documented all original sheet metal.

 

[c9zx]

It sounds nuts but, double layer of soft towels, a piece of 2" x 4", and a carefully used dead blow hammer. Minor adjustments can be made with shims under the fender at the bolt holes. It worked for me with no damage to the paint. Chuck

 

[turtle5353]

I pulled it off the car and laid it down on 2x4 and kept flattening it down till I got the curve I wanted.
Aftermarket ones are not welded around the pinch seam underneath. After I got the arch I wanted, I tacked welded the perimeter.

 

[Aus73Mach1]

One thing to remember and some body shops and mechanics don't seen to know about it. The hood hinges lock in place when fully up and the hood has to be pushed backwards before pulling downward to close. Heard a story where a judge at a car show pulled straight down to close a hood and bent the hinges and the hood. If you ever put your car in for a service, leave some instructions on how the hood must be closed.

 

[Paul M]

When I realigned the canopy on the Mach 1 (which was a terrible job), I noticed that the canopy was very warped. As far as I know, it is not a reproduction and is the original 73 hood. Is this the reason why it bulges so much? It doesn't bother me too much, but if there is a way to “fix” it, I would, of course, do it. The gap is already very high, see pictures

Aside from Turtle 5353's method of taking it off and putting weight on it. I used the same method with the 2x 4's only I placed a couple of cinder blocks on it for a few days. The rest was taken out by shimming where the fender meets the body / inner fender well. Simply place a couple of shims under the fender in the middle, leaving less on the front and rear. You may be able to go up a lil in the front which will assist.

 

[basstrix]

View attachment 94876I pulled it off the car and laid it down on 2x4 and kept flattening it down till I got the curve I wanted.
Aftermarket ones are not welded around the pinch seam underneath. After I got the arch I wanted, I tacked welded the perimeter.

I have an aftermarket I need to install and have been dreading this step. Are there any welds that need to be cut to ease the straightening/recurving process? I vaguely recall Dave from North Carolina saying something about this. Would like to see the tacks you added along each edge.