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After you've installed the new pan, fill with 6 quarts, intsead of 5, run the engine, then let it sit so the oil drains back into the pan....I'd let it sit for at least a half hour, but less is probably ok....then check the oil with the car parked on level surface and mark accordingly.

Sorry for your loss and hope that you are OK.

Here's the adjustment procedure from the Ford manual. It's possible the switch is adjusted such that it can end up partially into the Start position and isn't getting pushed back to the run position. The new switch should have had the pin, they mention, already inserted,

A quick test is to press the brake pedal with the engine idling and get a feel for how firm the pedal is, then, release the pedal, let it idle a few seconds, then shut it off and press again. You should get at least one press with power assist and then the pedal will get much firmer....that...

My plan is to drill a clearance hole in this flat area on the rear panel of the axle housing. I believe this is where Ford punched, then tapped a hole for the earlier models that required a fill plug in the axle. In other words, I don't think it's a coincidence that this flat spot is is...

@Sherriff, I was considering something similar for a drain plug, when I had the housing removed due to the same concern you noted. I never did install a drain plug. I'd be done with this install if the stock fill point existed on this housing :)

Not on all castings.

Have any of you added a fill plug to a ford 9 inch rear axle housing? I have a differential I want to install, but it has no fill plug. Wondering if the portion of the housing opposite of where the differential bolts up is thick enough (sufficient thread engagement) for a gasketed plug.

Welcome from Phoenix area.

Is this some kind of a troll post? Not bolting a carb down and troubleshooting an engine that wont start....total nonsense.

Sorry to learn of your losses and best wishes on your wife's recovery. 🙏

I bought a set for either the mustang or ranchero...haven't installed them yet. Not cheap, but very well made with a fairly long lead time. Stan indicated that he may be getting out of the business.

YT is one of the few rockers that Jim Miller names as having proper geometry to follow his Mid Lift setup on both sides of the fulcrum. In other words, at mid lift, the valve stem will be at a right angle to moment arm between valve and trunnion as will the pushrod to trunnion moment arm. All...

I'm glad they are taking care of you. My question is, do you believe the rocker did not have the pushrod cup installed? I would think that it would have been obvious something was wrong on that rocker/valve position during install. In particular, the lifter preload step, for hydraulic, or...

Wow, that's pathetic! I get that the warranty period has expired, but this is not a worn out roller tip or trunnion bearing...this looks like a manufacturing defect to me. I won't be recommending their product again. If you're up for the possibility of a verbal beating, you might consider...

The VIN Code for the engine will tell you what the factory installed, but engine swaps are not uncommon. Just something to keep in mind.

You might consider adding Map Lights and Parking Light Indicator to that list.

Good score! Funny, I have one of each of same casting # for sale right now on craigslist. I'm looking for one D0AE-N head, if you know of one.

I had 2 sets from the recall. I waited until they had one of their 25% off sales and took them in for refund and bought a pair replacements and broke even. The beam on the recalled stands had shallow, rough-cast teeth that didn't fully engage with the catch mechanism.

Strange things can happen, glad you're confident it won't go through the screen. If you're not able to fish it out, I suggest finding a magnetic drain plug....rare earth magnet, if available.