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1- Guttermouth 2- Pennywise 3- Dropkick Murphys 4- GBH

Nope, never seen that one around.

A buddy and I looked at that car, FWIW, the only good parts are the drivers side door and fender. The floors are ok, but the cowls are gone, I mean like you can reach through the engine compartment to the passengers side floor board! There isn't any interior or motor, he has a 351C 2-bolt...

I'm waiting for the Ford show in June, too! I went to the fall show and was quite disappointed, I won't do that again.

I don't know how I missed that grounding bolt hole, geez. Thanks guys!!

Hey guys, I'm about ready to start my car for the first time, and I'm not sure where the negative wire routes to. The motor is a 302 and I do not see any tabs or mounts on the block (like Clevelands have) for the wire. Doe it go to the block or elsewhere on the chassis? TIA Robert...

I vote yes, by far the best looking.

I would said it depends, a car with lower mileage would have signs of such. Like original ball joints, tie rod ends, motor and trans. mounts and perhaps hoses or cables. If all of the suspension has been changed, it probably to good to be true.

Great pix! Thanks they'll help. Anyone know where the black wire from the Alt. harness gets attached? Also where does the battery ground attach, I see in the blue car it attachs to the fender, where should it go from there? TIA

Hey Guys, I’m looking for some detailed pictures of the voltage regulator and starter relay area. When I removed the wiring harness to detail the engine compartment, I didn’t that any pix of where the wiring harness goes, so I’m kinda stuck figuring out where the wires go and connect. Thanks...

I thought that was the case, but Global West and Total Control both offer revised control arms that say they include the negative camber. You can also buy the relocation templets online, so I'm a little confused. :huh:

sick.... and not in a good way IMHO.

Has anyone done the Shelby mod, relocating the upper control arms 1 inch, to there 71-73 Mustang? I did it on a 1970 Cougar and loved the results. IIRC I thought the 71-73 already had that built in to the design at the factory? Thanks Robert

I have a set of NOS TRW main and rod bearings that are .010 under, and rings that are .030 over for a 351 Cleveland. The part numbers are as follows: rods CB962P10, mains MS3010P-10, rings T8325MX-30. I'm asking $125. shipped, also open to trades. Robert

Can you remove the oil pump, and take the oil pump drive (remove the locking washer), put it back into the distributor and hammer it out from the bottom?

I am unable to find the brake lines from the master cylinder to the distribution block (correct ones anyway). So I’m going to make my own. On the master cylinder, do the front and rear cylinders pump the same amount of fluid? I’m wondering if I need to have the same port to port alignment...

Awsome BKDunha, thanks!!

Hey guys, got a question, my Marti report says my car came from the factory with 'E70x14 Belted tires', 'White Sidewall Tires' and 'Wheel Covers'. How do I determine which hub caps are correct? Would it the standard caps or the dog dish type? This is for a 1971 Convert. Thanks R

I've been using Sta-bil Marine, it's the blue one, it also helps with the ethnol.

Great idea, I'm gonna have to make a set, thanks!