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I wonder what is hiding under that fresh paint... Also interior is not original. Deluxe seats with standard door panels...

I found this one, but it doesn't have the cut outs for the hood locks... http://www.championmustang.com/7173-mustang-grille-maskradiator-cover-abs-p-8751.html?zenid=4cfd744d32df8de953fb2bd52e43a7ba ACTUALLY... It looks like it mounts UNDER the hood locks since it has the cutout for the hood...

Sorry, the flash and dust/dirt makes it look white, the inside of the cowl is actually black. Here is another pic: The cowl area on the outside does look like it was painted, so it must mean that it was repaired at some point. Which I guess is good news.

Here's a pic of my cowl. There appears to be seam sealer around the 'chimney' portion. Is this from the factory or a repair job? My cowl doesn't leak, BUT the floor boards on the driver's side were rusty.

I have a few rust bubbles on my car. I plan on taking care of them next winter and have the car painted. In the mean time I want to stop the rust from getting worse, but I also don't want to drive around in a primer-mobile. I was thinking of getting a tiny drill bit, drill into the bubble...

Didn't R-Code 351c's have aluminum valve covers from the factory?

For those of you that have dyno'ed your cars, what sort of numbers did you put up? Also, what sort of modifications were done to your engines and what was the intended purpose of your build (street, strip, etc..)? I'm just curious to see what kind of mods did what for your engines. Thanks!

I started polishing my intake today... and it will probably take me many more days to finish it... but the end result should look sweet... :)

I found a spray can of fogging oil that I had. I spayed them with fogging oil and then wrapped each individually in sealed garbage bags (double bagged). Should be okay for 2 months or so.

I was going to use a rust preventative spray like Rust Check, however I wonder how hard it will be to clean off. I might use Pam as suggested by Jeff and stick them in a sealed bag.

Hi Guys, I picked up some freshly redone iron 4v CC heads that I hope to use in about 2 months. What is the best way to store the heads to prevent them from rusting? I was thinking of wrapping them in oil soaked rags or something along those lines. Thanks!

Thanks for your input everyone. I'm just playing with the idea at this stage. Here's one without spoilers and with a different set of rims (lowered a couple inches).

One of the things on my to-do list is to have my car painted. It is currently Blue Glow with Argent stripes/hood and blue interior. I like the color combo, but I was also thinking of flipping it to make it more unique. What do you guys think (photoshopped car is not mine)? EDIT: Second pic is...

Check out b-quiet. As good as Dynamat and about half the cost from what I recall. I used about 80 square feet on my interior (floor, door panels, rear speaker shelf, rear interior quarters) and then laid factory reproduction insulation on top of that. I did it mostly to get maximum audio...

I thought it was perforated... just hard to tell in the pictures. I like the way the gold Moroso bits looked on your engine... maybe I will hold on to them if I ever choose to go for a period correct modified look.

Nice pics... but what was with that 'sheet of aluminum' grill you had? Didn't you have heating issues? :)

I agree. What I am wondering though is how much I will be giving up at either end when comparing the two... I also have an old Holley Street Dominator (for 2V heads), I might throw that into the mix as well.

I don't really need the Moroso bits... Although they do look cool. I was after the intake... and I want to see how it suits my engine and compare it to the RPM Air-Gap. I will dyno both setups once everything is done.

I drove 6 hours (both ways) today to grab these parts... however for the price I was paying it was worth it... The intake has some obscure writing on it... "Strip Dominator"... :)

Great, thanks. I thought it was a "too good to pass up" price. I'll grab them!