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I just reread you have the engine out so I’m no help yet…

Loose softball size of tinfoil on the top of carb with heat spacer on and stud out to avoid giving yourself a dimple. 👌🏻

Give some love to West Coast Classic Cougars as well, especially if you need brake components like rebuilt PB boosters, etc. Top notch guys IMO, plus informative vids for DIY. 👌🏻

Today I had her out and with Chicago tourists infiltrating my town and the radar signs out I did some verifying on my speedo after I put in the trac-loc 3:50’s and the C4 after pulling out the FMX w/2:75 open. I have a 23 tooth gear in trans, recording 4mph under actual, 60 mph at 3k rpm, 3600...

I have the OEM PS pump and took off the “longer hoses” that attached to the shock tower/firewall brace when I pulled and stored the original 2V engine with AC and the original radiator to where I’m at now. WCCC PS lines WO/AC - and when I got home this afternoon (85 degrees today here in SE WI...

Atta boy! 🇺🇸

I wish I had your problems and had an OEM 8 track to figure out! All I recall from back in the day was my older brothers using a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to keep their players and tapes (3 dog night/Beatles/Jethro Tull/Supertramp) clean and running. I know that’s not much help but I do...

That’s does suck for sure but the silver lining is that you may be back to figuring out the trans and the rear deck fitting as close as possible… I still recommend you going through all the comments related to safe handling and most importantly, stopping. Keep us updated as I sense we have a...

Darrel, the “squealing noise”you described back in your post the day after you got it doesn’t correlate with your engine now stalling or whatever it’s doing. We don’t know what dist you have so maybe a few pics will help and do you have any paperwork from the seller on what’s all on in your car...

I have a rear valance in its shipping bag and have not found the urge to prep and paint it and then redo my tailpipes to try to get it to match properly. It was finicky enough to redo my SS exhaust from Sanderson block huggers to an X, to Magnaflows (perfect size) and out to the rear...

I at times wish I had 3.73's from my 3:50 trac loc (from the orig 2:75 open) but he prolly wants to get where he's going in a "bigger" hurry! 😂

🤦‍♂️ Hang in there. I have to think there is a go-to guy/gal shop near you.

Classic flick for sure but my opinion isn't regarding a head on'r, its about body flex when we put more giddy-up in them than OEM especially in a rag-top.

Going back and looking at your pic it almost looks like its down to the striker but not latched. Without putting my eyeballs on it and assuming the hinges are mounted correctly, you can try this as a starting point and hopefully an adjustment down a tad gets you squared away. How's the tranny...

I'm not sure about all the previous "linkage" issues on carb vs manifold posted earlier but that will have nothing to do with fuel leaks. IMO, take it off and start over from ensuring your carb bowls, etc., are dialed in from supply line, gaskets, seals, screws properly torqued. When changing...

I think I get what you are asking. There is one master line from MC to the rear (that mounts with vapor line) and on the axle housing there is a valve going out to L & R brake cylinders.

The rear brake line comes up with the vapor line and then branches over to the master cylinder. I moved the harness so now if you look closely, the brake line to the RF looks like it is with the vapor line but is coming from the MC.

Congrats to "both" of you. 🤙🏻

My vapor line is as Steve described, starting in middle front of tank, up and over axle up the DS tunnel on DS and to the firewall over to the canister.