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Run a coarse thread drywall screw into the sheet metal portion of the seal then use a pair of alternative lifestyle pliers to grab the screw and leverage it out enough until you can get a screw driver or chisel behind it.

That looks like the Crane stud conversion kit. As Don suggested some judicious use of heat should help. The lower portion of the stud is only 5/16" so be careful not to snap them. The intake manifold gasket looks like a Fel-Pro print-o-seal. They are known to fail like that.

I believe the fittings are 1/8" npt x 5/16" inverted flare. I got mine at my local hardware store.

Global West is the only one who makes a convertible specific subframe connector that I am aware of. All the others require surgery to install on a vert. The only downside to the GW connectors is they hang down a bit to clear the convertible floor pan so they are somewhat visible from the side...

https://www.ebay.com/p/169366129

I have played around with the Q-jet and when they are right they are very good. I have several on the shelf that I have dissected and modified over the years mostly as a learning exercise.. There are several good books on the subject and a couple good forums if you are looking for tuning help...

At 1000-2000 rpm you are probably still on the t slot. I would bet the engine smooths out above 2000 rpm because the primary main jet is beginning to flow. If you set your idle mixture screws using the highest vacuum method your idle circuit is likely too lean especially with an aftermarket...

Stock valvetrain?

Rebuilding the hinges is usually the fix.

Most engines usually have one cylinder that runs leaner than the others due to distribution issues. It is usually easily identifiable by looking at the plugs. On mine it is number 4. For safety sake you are always going to tune for the demands of the leanest cylinder, so the rule of thumb is to...

3/8"

Very nice! I am somewhat surprised at the 6300 HP peak with that short duration cam. Should be a lot of fun. Well done.

The electric choke should not have constant power. It needs a switched power source. Many people run power for the choke from the S terminal on the back of the alternator. You can also splice into a switched power source in the steering column wiring harness.

Didn't the Mexican 7173's have Windsors?

In my experience adjusting the idle mixture to achieve highest vacuum usually results in an idle mixture that is too lean. This may be why you are getting a stumble when goosing the throttle with the car idling in park. It could also be the accelerator pump cam and/or nozzle. Also on a 4 corner...

What list number Holley carb do you have? How many turns out are the idle mixture screws? What is the vacuum reading and rpm in gear (if auto)?

Like Chuck I am not a fan of precious metal plugs in the old iron. I would start by putting copper plugs back in. When you turn the idle mixture screws all the way in does the engine die? Big cam with low vacuum can often lead to over exposure of the t-slot giving you sooty plugs. If you don't...

Drive it hard for a bunch more miles. IMO that's all idle/transition marking.

If your immediate goal is simply to get it running start by removing the spark plugs and determining if the engine will rotate by hand with a breaker bar on the balancer bolt. Use OZCoupe72's suggestion to put some lubricant down the cylinders first. If it does rotate I would pull the valve...

I have. It is a big deal only in the respect that you need to make a provision to return the vapors to the fuel tank. I would insulate the fuel line and use a phenolic spacer under the carb before resorting to the vapor separator filter. Those measures solve 90% of heat related fuel issues.