Intake/Water Pump Hose Connections (351c)

[JoColtrane]

I don't currently have A/C but may plan on installing it (351c 2v w/ original intake). Need some clarification on the original heater hose connections. What were the original ports where the A/C heater hoses connected. I'm guessing right front intake port and top port on water pump (labeled as #1 in pic below). If I'm incorrect let me know. My question is what are the ports labeled as #2 and especially #3 used for and what type of fittings should be in #3. Currently hose was recirculating from #1 to #3. If you can't tell that's a picture of my water pump.



Jo

 

[Don C]

#3 is the pressure line to the heater core inlet, #1 is the return to the water pump from the heater core outlet, #2 is not used and is always plugged. #3 is a 5/8" o.d. tube that is pressed into the block.

It is likely your heater core leaks, looping the heater hose is a favorite band-aid, rather than replacing the heater core. 

 

[JoColtrane]

Don,

Appreciate the reply. That's what I was thinking but then got confused when I started looking at images. If you look at these images the first image shows the port that I have labeled as #3 (in the block). But if you look at the two diagrams outlet appears to be at port on front right of intake manifold. What I have labeled as #1 (top port on water pump) & #3 appear to be looped and what I have labeled as #2 (bottom port on water pump) appears to be the inlet. Am I just reading these wrong or is there more than one set-up?

Jo

 

[Don C]

The illustrations are for Windsor engines, which have the coolant crossover in the intake manifold, and a heater hose connection in the coolant crossover. Clevelands have the coolant crossover in the block, therefore no coolant and heater connection in the intake manifold.

 

[tony-muscle]

Second what Don said. Those are Windsor illustrations. It is a shame that they are mislabeled as being for a Cleveland.

Here is a picture from my engine. I hand traced the numbers. I have the water temp sender unit in #2 for the stock gauge because I am using the stock sender unit location for the water temp for the EFI.

 

[JoColtrane]

Got it, Thx. Outlet fitting appears to be disintegrated. Any thoughts on getting that out?

 

[mezell29]

To answer your question - mine is pretty stock. Here's a good pic:

 

[Don C]

Here's how to get it out

https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/26754-rusted-press-in-heater-hose-tube-351/?tab=comments#comment-274273

Some members have replaced the press in one with a threaded one, by tapping the hole in the block, I believe with a 1/2" pipe thread tap.

 

[vintageman]

When I changed out the pressed in outlet, mine was almost completely disintegrated, I used a small flat blade screwdriver and pick to press the sides inward, it just tore it up. After trying to pull it out with needle nose pliers, it was just tearing apart. I had the block stripped of parts so I turned it upside down on my stand and kept pulling on it with the pliers until it fell out.  I don't need to tell you how nerve racking that was.  Good luck with removal, be careful brother.

Tom

 

[TommyK]

Here's how to get it out

https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/26754-rusted-press-in-heater-hose-tube-351/?tab=comments#comment-274273

Some members have replaced the press in one with a threaded one, by tapping the hole in the block, I believe with a 1/2" pipe thread tap.

3/8"

 

[Don C]

Thanks Tommy. I had 3/8" to start with, but then starting over-thinking it, and went back and changed it to 1/2".

 

[JoColtrane]

Got it. Thanks for the replies. Proceeding cautiously.

 

[Don C]

Yes, be careful, you can read what happens here:

https://7173mustangs.com/forums/topic/34162-broken-water-bypass-tube-nipple-351c/?tab=comments#comment-350745