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I use GV so I can keep the toploader and 3.50 rear gears for interstate, other than that, c4/fmx/c6 no

A little late, but I just use what was stock. Yes it's big and heavy. Close to 11.1 compression. Never failed yet (fingers crossed) 40 plus yrs. and counting.

I been running Sandersons for many yrs. They may get tight on the driver side near the flange connect. They will not work using factory style H pipe, but they will really wake up a Cleveland with 4V cast logs. Dyno. proven

This forum can be tough on owner that been involved with these big ugly 71/3 mustang from there beginning. Things didn't always and most time, go by the book to keep the production line moving. Condolence to Kit's family.

It may be how high the intake sit. Are you using a thick gasket instead of the turkey pan. Mine, the block is zero decked, so some needed to be removed from the BT for better port alignment. I always use the pan type gasket. The snap tad on the back side has never been a real problem. A screw...

Mine is close but more clockwise than what pictured. I may be running more initial adv. with limited mechanical adv. than what called for in the book. It put the vac. canister touching the rad hose.

I have gotten auto glass for our old cars (order) from independent installers. I always do my own work, so make it clear to them.  They could make you a better deal (maybe) on the total price.

There is tinted, and then there very tinted. The second I can understand why. So your saying cars back then, ordered with A/C must have clear glass only, or are you saying a replacement windshield that's very tinted at the top only is a no-no?

I have the complete setup in the archive. The glass was known to shatter at times. Never thought those covers, 4 rusty screws and broken off wire tabs could be worth so much, but what do I know.

My old 72 had jute with black thin plastic sheeting glued facing the trunk side. It was hung on seat back hooks. Its still there today, but I'm no expert.

Going back in time to the 90's. I used the earlier mustang inners for 72. It all fit except I needed to weld in a small filler. It something like a 3" square area facing to the front where the two half's meet, but I'm no expert.

No big deal, unless someone did a quick floor road sign patch. I'm no expert, but seen a lot disassembling these ugly 71/73 cars, and storing parts that nobody wanted. Pop rivets do hold the gas tank if the straps fail....

24 is the smaller standard. 27 was optional, but option determined the size. The letter is the post orientation, but I'm no expert.

Real wood veneer. I gave up on the aftermarket vinyl. It dries out (shrinks and edges roll up), and just looks cheap. But I'm no expert.

Never made a big deal of it, but that big ugly red 72 for Mustang Monthly June 2006 belong to the wife and I from it's beginning. Been in some ads , and refused it be used in a movie. Seen a thing or two when nobody cared about these cars, but no expert...

As mention. It's just only to stop the chug-a chug after ignition is shut off. As for the A/C, it can't push open the throttle ( if wired) to compensate the idle rpm drop. It can only hold it with some help.

A modified window air conditioner before the air compressor has work for me, but I'm not an expert

Are we all clamed down now

Your right Don, its pg. 12. I wish I had computer knowledge to make it easier. It starts under heading REAR SUSPENSION Paragraph starting optional CS to Line 5 351 4V and up. The next sentence goes as The CS is standard the mach 1 Boss 351 429 CJ CJ-J engines It's confusing the facts...

Time wasted, but here we go Carefully read pg. 8 under( functional) not just the underline The complete paragraph and note (351 4V and 429) Still on pg. 8 under (Variable Ratio) Vehicles equip with Comp. Suspension Now pg. 11 under (Comp Suspension) Again carefully read Standard on (351...