How to mount and what dryer for compressor?

[scgamecock]

Where do you have your dryer mounted?  Plumbed directly into the compressor and then have the nipple on the end of the trap?  Any pics?  What style\brand should I get?

 

[73pony]

I have my garage piped. So my dryer is mounted about 20' from the compressor. This allows the air and water to separate in the line somewhat before going through the dryer. I also have a valved drain leg at each outlet. I have a second dryer mounted at one outlet that is used for the paint gun.

 

[scgamecock]

I have my garage piped. So my dryer is mounted about 20' from the compressor. This allows the air and water to separate in the line somewhat before going through the dryer. I also have a valved drain leg at each outlet. I have a second dryer mounted at one outlet that is used for the paint gun.

Jason,

Sounds like a pretty cool setup.  What did you use for piping?  Any pics?

 

[73pony]

I can try to get some pics this weekend. I used K copper with press fittings. I’m sure L copper would be fine but I used K for my own piece of mind (K is generally used for commercial refrigeration lines and medical gas). The press fittings are spendy and the tool is crazy expensive but since we have a couple press tools at work it was a no brainer. Saves a ton of time over brazing all the joints.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

For just the hobby guy doing some occasional painting a dryer is overkill. You can run your air through a coil of copper line in a 5 gallon bucket of ice and water for what little painting you will be doing. The cold condenses the water from the air and you put a bleed valve in the bottom and open it slightly to allow moisture out. Keep the water bled off your tank at the compressor.

Google and see if there are not some ideas out there.

You can put a desiccant dryer after that if you think you still have too much moisture. You can actually dry the used desiccant out in oven and reuse.

As long as you put a little oil in your air tools you do not need super dry air for them. Always take your air from the top of the line and do not turn your tee down. That allows the moisture to collect there. Have drop downs at the ends of your air lines with a blow down.

Have never had a dryer for last 50 years. When I use to shoot lacquer it was important to have dry air because it dried so fast it trapped any moisture in the paint and would blush. Never had that problem with ice and bucket.

If I get one car a year to spray a little paint on I would be happy. Dryer is not cheap and uses lots of power also.

 

[Hemikiller]

I think you're referring to a moisture or water separator, not a dryer. Dryers are usually an active refrigeration unit that removes water from the air as it passes through. A water separator is a passive unit, that causes the water vapor to condense and separate from the air stream. You'll normally only find dryers in paint shops and industrial settings.

Dry air is critical to paint quality and the lifespan of your air tools.

At the very least, you'll want a reasonable capacity vapor separator in between the compressor and your drops. Mount it as far from the compressor as practical, to allow the air to cool. Ideally, you'll also want an vapor/oil separator at each drop, but cost is often an issue.

Some good reading - keep in mind that it is geared towards industrial applications, but the basics are the same.

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/how-to-library.php

 

[red351]

A modified window air conditioner before the air compressor has work for me, but I'm not an expert

 

[scgamecock]

I think you're referring to a moisture or water separator, not a dryer. Dryers are usually an active refrigeration unit that removes water from the air as it passes through. A water separator is a passive unit, that causes the water vapor to condense and separate from the air stream. You'll normally only find dryers in paint shops and industrial settings.

Dry air is critical to paint quality and the lifespan of your air tools.

At the very least, you'll want a reasonable capacity vapor separator in between the compressor and your drops. Mount it as far from the compressor as practical, to allow the air to cool. Ideally, you'll also want an vapor/oil separator at each drop, but cost is often an issue.

Some good reading - keep in mind that it is geared towards industrial applications, but the basics are the same.

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout

https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/how-to-library.php

Yes I think I misspoke about a dryer and meant to say a water trap. 

Since I dont have my shop plumed for air drops can I just run a water trap off or the compressor outlet and then hook my hose to the water seperator?  It will be a while before I can afford and have time to put in air drops.

 

[Hemikiller]

You can do whatever you want, but just from my own experience - now that you have a compressor, make the time and set up a rudimentary air system before you start tearing into things. Spending a few bucks and a little time now will prevent issues down the road. IIRC, you live in an area known for humidity.

 

[scgamecock]

You can do whatever you want, but just from my own experience - now that you have a compressor, make the time and set up a rudimentary air system before you start tearing into things. Spending a few bucks and a little time now will prevent issues down the road. IIRC, you live in an area known for humidity.

Ive been looking at the Rapid Air Maxline Air system video's on YouTube.  They look pretty good and easy to install.  I would just need to buy the water trap seperately.  

 

[Hemikiller]

Only problem with that stuff is it's not something you can get locally. Look at the prices on the fittings, last I remember, they were not cheap.

 

[scgamecock]

Only problem with that stuff is it's not something you can get locally. Look at the prices on the fittings, last I remember, they were not cheap.

That is true.  What would you suggest?  PEX?  Anything that Lowes or Home Depot carries??

 

[73pony]

Do not use pex!!!

It is not UV stable and will breakdown overtime where the sun hits it. It is also not rated for Air. L copper or thicker or steel. Don’t use PVC. If it bursts it shatters and creates dangerous projectiles.

 

[Hemikiller]

Only problem with that stuff is it's not something you can get locally. Look at the prices on the fittings, last I remember, they were not cheap.

That is true.  What would you suggest?  PEX?  Anything that Lowes or Home Depot carries??

Going to be a bunch of naysayers, but I prefer black iron/steel pipe for air. Look in any industrial building and that's what you'll find. I've worked with it since the 90's and it just plain works. It's easy to add onto, but does require a little planning. Pipe is dirt cheap per foot.

 

[turtle5353]

Only problem with that stuff is it's not something you can get locally. Look at the prices on the fittings, last I remember, they were not cheap.

That is true.  What would you suggest?  PEX?  Anything that Lowes or Home Depot carries??

Going to be a bunch of naysayers, but I prefer black iron/steel pipe for air. Look in any industrial building and that's what you'll find. I've worked with it since the 90's and it just plain works. It's easy to add onto, but does require a little planning. Pipe is dirt cheap per foot.

I also use black steel pipe for mine.  I have a hose reel plumbed in place also that has a 50' hose that can reach just about anywhere I need it in my shop.

 

[Don C]

The only downside of black iron pipe (other than cutting pipe to correct length and threading it) is that if the air supply isn't completely dry it will rust. I would use a filter at each hose connector.

I would use black iron pipe before copper pipe. K or L rigid copper would be my second choice, with either push-on or soldered (sweated) connectors, with soldered preferred due to cost and strength.