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I recently retrofitted my '79 Bronco with a 400 Cleveland with modern A/C. It was not very difficult or very expensive. If you have a SBF, your brackets to mount a Sanden/Seltec compressor will be different, but for an engine originally supplied with a York/Tecumseh compressor you can find...

Hmmm... I do understand the starving student situation; I was once one of those as well. The 4R70W is more of a premium upgrade and comes with its own computer controlled pain in the arse, so in lieu of that I would look for a '93 Mustang GT/LX 5.0 with an AOD transmission. Those are supposed...

Not sure if you're trying to keep your car as original as possible, but a good option in lieu of the C4 would be a 4R70W. I'm loving mine!

I'm referring to the little metal clips that mount to the upper part of the door and are presumably used to apply pressure to the window glass (when it's up) to keep it sealed against the weatherstrip. They appear to have been coated with some kind of durable plastic material at one point, but...

LOL, yes, in stock trim, either engine is a turd. However, if you install a non-retarded timing chain you'll get all the power back. I have a 400 in my '79 Bronco and after installing an OEM replacement cam from Crane and a Cloyes roller timing set straight up the engine dynoe'd at 300 hp...

Ok, so this comment quoted above along with any Ford-Edsel series engine in a '71-73 Mustang is one of the stupidest things I've ever heard. The FE engine is extremely antiquated and while there are ways to make tons of power out of an FE block, it's not worthwhile for a myriad of...

I've been running an injected Cleveland for about 6 years now. I used OEM Ford parts, using EEC-IV control, but also upgraded to EDIS8 with the 36-1 trigger wheel and eliminated the distributor. Very reliable and powerful.

If you use the flat plate bracket with the ear mounts for a Sanden/Seltec on the original York bracket, you'll need to use the stock idler pulley. If purchase a bracket with adjustment built into it, no need for the idler pulley, but I would prefer the former.

I just picked up some Moog ball joints and they're definitely USA made, so I'm happy with them for now.

Whatever you guys decide, stay AWAY from Chinese radiators unless you enjoy replacing them on a regular basis. I would say that Japanese and Taiwanese parts are fine, but no China. Of course, US, Canada, and Mexico are fine... as is Brazil and Argentina for places of manufacture as well. The...

If it's a '93 and earlier AOD, I'm not aware of any Mercon V requirement for fluid. The AODE and 4R70W are more alike and they certainly do call for Mercon V, however.

It's usually the main diff seal... a lot of folks use silicone, but I recently purchased a Cometic MLS gasket and it seems to be working very well. The other location it could potentially leak from is the pinion seal, but that's slightly more rare of a situation and often caused by driveline...

It looks like the Chinese made Champion rads are better quality than the American made Northern (Summit Racing), so go for it. Personally, I've not had any problem with my Northern and let's all remember, I do live in one of the hottest climates on earth.

If it started leaking after a year you probably had galvanic corrosion and high voltage in your coolant. It's a common problem that a lot of folks don't double check prior to installing an aluminum radiator. Also, use Zerex G05 coolant because it is formulated specifically for modern aluminum...

I'm running a Summit Racing "direct fit" rad which appears to be manufactured by Northern. It's so good that it literally overcools in 110*F ambient temperature here in AZ. Also, it doesn't break the bank... it is, after all, a US made aluminum rad.

Yeah, I'm running 17" wheels, but if you're trying to keep everything stock I'm not sure exactly which rotor kit would work... maybe the GT or V6 with its smaller rotors.

Depends on how deep your pockets are, but I vaguely recall the kit, which included everything (rotors, pads, brake lines, hardware, brackets, etc.) was roughly $550. In addition to this, I had to get some parking brake cables from NAPA for about $40. I decided to replace my wheel bearings...

I finally managed to get it done. Vintage Venom rear brake kit with Cobra calipers and discs! Still breaking it in, so not sure how much of an improvement there is yet.

I'm assuming you're talking about their break-in specific oil, not their regular synthetic stuff.

I had my local exhaust guy fabricate my system in full 3.0" aluminized tubing. Looks and sounds great, even includes a 3" X-pipe.