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I saw the link for Preval. looks like I can buy them at Home Depot. I'll try to get a single stage mix so I can shoot color/clear in one shot. I assume I will need primer as well, and something to mix the paint with to thin it for spraying.

I just called the local SW store. they can scan the car and sell me paint, but they can't sell me paint in spray cans. I'm halfway there....

I found a Sherwin-Williams auto paint store about 1 hr away. I'll call them

if I took my car to a drag strip and gave it full throttle, I think I would be the last car of the night due to the time it would take to clean up the trail of fluids and parts from the strip...I don't know exactly what would break, I just know it would break....a lot

I have plenty of experience with HVLP sprayers from my woodworking, just never applied the concepts to metal. I suppose I could make some new mirrors out of wood for a "custom" look. I may swing by the local collision repair place and see if I can pay them for a paint scan. they only do...

good advice. I've never been to an auto paint store, so I will first need to find one. thanks

I want to buy some rattle-can paint to touch up some body panels and paint new door mirrors.  the color of my car is not the factory color, and I have no idea what color red this is.  1) anyone have a good guess as to what color red this is? 2) where can I buy paint? thanks for the help

so it turns out that the car has a 3.10 right now in the Dana 44. so instead of going with a new 3.50 posi, I'm going with a 3.73.

last winter when I was looking for a Mach 1 to buy, I test drove a '71 with a Keith Craft motor making 500+ hp out in AZ. the car had too many issues so I passed on it, but that car with a 4sp could move !

I think I have a better idea. last year I put a new 306( 380hp, 420 torque at 4500 rpm) crate motor in my 90 Bronco. I regret putting in a small displacement higher revving motor. I would prefer the Bronco to have more hp and drive at more like 1500-2500 rpm. I think the way the 306 crate...

the clicking comes and goes after the car is at temperature. oil pressure is good. I ran the car yesterday about 3hrs, and I really paid attention in the 3rd hour. at idle sometimes it was a very slow click, at speed it would be in time with the RPM, then it would completely go away for...

I made the volume louder in this version [video=youtube]

hopefully this video works [video=youtube]

1.    Metallic clicking coming from under the hood      a.    Happens only intermittently      b.    When it starts clicking, happens at any rpm at any speed, but is definitely faster/slower depending on RPM      c.    Almost sounds like a manifold leak tick, but more metallic whats hard to...

I added a shifter boot. I think it will work. the classic console metal surface has a couple of screws that can be loosened and I will sandwich the base of the boot between the layers of the console. that should give it a more finished look. right now its just tucked into the opening

$12k for a solid driver is fair money all day long. and by solid, I mean runs and drives....both of these cars are in better driving condition than mine, so my frame of reference is different I guess. I prefer a stick shift however. for me, the fun with old cars is 1) finding a great deal 2)...

its a bluetooth remote for the stereo amp.

I bought a cheap pair from walmart. they absolutely suck more than I could have imagined. they bunch up so much I'd rather be sweaty than sit on a rumpled pile of fabric

I really like the quality of the new classic console I put in. the old one was not original and was really cheap. what I don't like is the shifter boot situation.  the current boot is screwed to the trans tunnel.  anyone have any ideas on how to put a good looking boot onto the classic console?

on second thought......https://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/d/oil-springs-1971-fastback-mustang-with/6955991041.html