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Looking for black standard set, partial set or random covers. New sets are back ordered 10-12 weeks and I can't wait that long. Let me know what you have. 

Anybody here have a 351C/FMX combo with an Eldebrock 1406 carburetor and OEM kickdown rod? Any advice/pictures would be appreciated. I called Eldebrock tech support but unfortunately, got somebody who didn't offer much help. He suggested #1483 kickdown linkage adapter.

Update: I adjusted the linkage, rechecked my connections with the vacuum line from the carb (Edelbrock 1406), topped off tranny fluid, then road tested it. No change. When I put it in 'Drive' and stomp on throttle from dead stop it automatically shifts into 2nd and engine RPMs climb until it...

I will look at the linkage and see if it needs adjusting. TY

If I put it in 'Drive' and cruise it around at normal driving speeds, it starts out and shifts fine. Not much performance there. I can't even spin the rear tires if I keep it in 'Drive'. Only way I can turn tires over is to manually shift in down to 1st, then I can do a little burnout. This is a...

I bought a new steel vacuum line and installed it with new rubber hoses at the carb and modulator. I'll recheck those connections. TY

I bought a FMX transmission (was told it was recently rebuilt) and installed it on my 1971 Mustang Mach 1 with a 351C. The transmission shifts fine going from 1st to 2nd gear and at low/moderate RPMs, it shifts into 3rd okay. When I come to a stop light and manually shift it into first and stomp...

I looked at some steel lines at the Auto parts store today and they weren't gonna work very well. Next up, I saw the copper nickel 3/8 inch tubing on ebay, 25' for $50. It looked good, but then I found the factory replacement 2 piece steel line by ss_tubes for $65 and free shipping. I ordered...

Fabrice: Thank you. I was thinking it over last night, Part of me wanted to pump vinegar thru the lines to remove rust/debris and the other part wanted to just replace old line with new flexible aluminum line. I will check out your suggested links. I'm leaning on replace with new line.

Edelbrock 600. I will check it out. TY

Back to square 1. Car was sputtering today and I checked my glass fuel filter and it was empty again! Some light debris in it, but not that bad. Looks like I'm gonna I'm gonna buy the Weed Wacker trim line and go that route. TY for the information.

Mark, here you go.

So I followed your advice and blew compressed air thru the line from the rear up to the front at the fuel pump connection. At first, there was blow back as the air didn't want to go thru the line, then suddenly it pushed thru and I got about 2/3 cup of fuel and a bunch of rusty black sediment...

I used fuel hose for the tank connection to the steel lines and everything else up to the carb. I'm gonna try the compressed air to clear the lines. Thanks.

Don: Yes there was some debris in the fuel filter, it kinda looked like rust. I was thinking maybe the steel fuel line from rear of car to engine compartment may be plugged. I'm gonna check it out this weekend.

Was driving my 1971 mustang yesterday and it started acting like it was running out of gas. I had full tank.  It was sputtering so I pulled of to side of road and looked under hood at my glass see thru fuel filter and saw it was dry. I replaced the fuel filter with a new one and on the way home...

I did this about 10 years ago, so I'm going off of memory but here's what I would do: I would disconnect the battery first, then unscrew the bolt that holds the green plug to the fuse box. Once separated, route the wiring harness like the one in the picture. It should run across and behind the...

So when I turn my lights on (either running lights and or headlights, the fuse should become hot)? I'll have to take a look at that. TY Don C.

I was thinking the same thing and I replaced the headlight switch last night.  Shouldn't the fuse block be hot at all times? I think I will find out which wire feeds the fuse block and trace it back. It might come from the battery.