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Welcome from Texas.

What I would do is to try to see where the voltage drop is coming from, trace it all the way down from the battery to the starter, piece by piece. Here is a good video on how to do that:

The green glass is what manufacturers called tinted glass, it was an option.

Welcome from East Texas! Great story, I wish my dad had been a car guy and helped me when I was young. He was the farthest thing from a car guy, any vehicle he had he drove it till the wheels fell off it, LOL. Those memories of you and your dad working on your Mustang will be with you forever...

Hello and welcome from East Texas!

Every time I have had that whistling sound when I press the brakes, it has been a bad booster. So, it is most probably your booster, but check everything else to rule out a vacuum leak somewhere else. Disconnect your brake booster hose from the back or the manifold or carburetor and put a plug...

I kind of figured this out the hard way while doing butt welds on quite a few patch panels on my Mustang. First thing I would say is that doing lap welds is much easier, and the end result is probably stronger as you are not doing a ton of grinding on your new welds and metal, which will weaken...

Before I did my front floor pan, I probably saw every video on replacing Mustang floor pans on YouTube. IMHO these 2 are the best:

My understanding is the the rear spoiler was optional on the Boss 351.

I did use self taping screws on the floor pan, I screwed it on to the frame rails. To make it easier to tap the screws in, I drilled a small pilot hole before I put the self tapping screw in. Frame rails, and if you do it on the rockers are quite thick, or at least thicker than the floor.

I also saw the 25 day reserve of diesel fuel issue. Supposedly there was over 45 days of reserve just 2 months ago...

How big is that gap? The one thing that I would do before I started pushing the tail panel into the truck floor is to tack it into place or place a couple of self tapping screws to hold it in and put the trunk and the rear valance on the car, just lightly bolt them into place, just to make sure...

Every black painted header will cook off the paint, the paint is just there so that the headers do not rust inside the boxes as they sit to get sold. Unless it is a ceramic coated header in black, it will cook off.

There are a number of aftermarket aluminum heads out there, and most are excellent heads. What I see as the biggest issue with spending a ton of money on aluminum heads is that the Cleveland heads flow so well, even the 2V heads flow very well. So, you do not see the HP gains you would see if...

I think that the only thing that let that car down was that it was a 72 instead of a 71. If it had been a 71 M code, it would have probably brought in more money. As soon as compression ratios go down on classic cars, the price plummets, even though a 72 is basically identical to a 71, and the Q...

My understanding is that front and rear spoilers were always an option, they were never standard on any model. Exhaust cutouts are a mess, look at this thread: https://7173mustangs.com/threads/mach-1-rear-valance.31532/

What I did when doing a front drivers side floor pan was weld the rocker area last. Since the rocker is flat and the panel is flat, it is not difficult to have them mate well. After I had everything else welded, I went in with a hammer, and in the areas where the pan was a little separated from...

This is not my area of expertise but I will give you some thing I learned while working on a Factory Five GTM I used to have. When I bought the car the front of the car was slightly higher than the rear, I can't recall how much exactly, but it was not much, if I recall correctly maybe 1/2"...

Welcome from Texas!

Welcome from Texas!