classicsguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2011
- Messages
- 634
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Puerto Rico
- My Car
- 1968 GT/CS California Special
1973 sportsroof project on CL
- Thread starter classicsguy
- Start date
Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:
Where's the engine? Because it certainly looks like it's not in the car
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Joined
- May 8, 2012
- Messages
- 190
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Cookeville, Tennessee
- My Car
- 1972 Mach1 (H-Code)
The ad says the car is "unmolested," but... it looks kinda molested.
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2012
- Messages
- 1,989
- Reaction score
- 8
- Location
- Washington
- My Car
- 1971 Mach1, 351 Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Automatic, AM/8 Track, Bright Red.
That's a unique wheelie bar.
Paul of MO
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2011
- Messages
- 638
- Reaction score
- 16
- Location
- Land of old Geezers
- My Car
- 71 M Code Convert - Barn find
73 H Code Convert - Field find
73 H code - Latest Project
If it is not a flat out lie and knowing that most CL listings are at least wildly optimistic about what they are selling this is the kind of flip/parts car vehicle I look for.
So assuming it is exactly like he says it is.
Show up with cash and buy the car for 2K or less.
Get ALL of the parts and put it back together enough to see if it starts, runs, drives, stops, with a minimum of cost using as much of my used parts as possible.
Take the extra parts that I have collected over the years and spruce up what looks bad or replace what is broken/missing
Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean...........
Take lots of pictures......... Make an album of before and after pics.
Make a punch list of everything that is bad on the car.
Remove anything that is bad but is not being replaced such as a headliner.
Hide nothing.
Pull all of the trim and the fender bolts
If the exterior sheet metal does not need a lot of filler then seal it, fill the holes and scuff and paint it all one normal pleasant color.
If the sheet metal rust is more typical then knock out the big crud, rust treat it, and primer it all one color.
Re install all of the trim and the rattle can painted dark grey fender bolts.
(I hate painted over fender bolts)
Make under the hood look clean and that the engine is painted with presentable belts and hoses, rebuilt 600 cfm carb (or the rebuilt original 2V) all sitting under a nice chrome air cleaner. Detail, Detail, Detail......
Polish the old aftermarket wheels that are always on a car bought like this or put 14 inch steel wheels and stock hubcaps back on the car (I have whole stacks of them).
Make sure all 5 of the tires match. Safe used ones are always available from local tire salvage companies usually with 50% or more of the tread left on them and a good DOT number.
You now have a safe to drive car, all one color, and most importantly clean if not restored inside and out.
Regardless of temptation, when selling the car show the buyer the album, the punch list, and explain that the paint job or primer job is just to slow down the rust and it needs to be totally redone. Show them all of your receipts. Point out every single flaw and hide nothing.
I can do all of the work myself and typically only do this on 71 - 73 Mustangs. I have 20 plus years of collected parts for these specific cars.
My shop has a lift and I only want to make enough money to fund my personal projects.
It has worked well for me. I have a "car account" that has enough in it for me to do what I want. I bought a brand new 2003 Cobra with my car account. Fun! (bought a 61 HI-PO Starliner that year for 6k and sold it for 30K with little additional $ in it - results not typical)
I am currently working on a 73 convert that has every option except 4V or ram air. This is a solid car and is a keeper for my wife and I. There is enough currently in the car account to fund a very high end restoration.
If the craigslist car is nasty I leave my number and ask them to call me if it does not sell. I have had more than one person call me back and tell me to just come get it.
Why 71 - 73 Mustangs? I got one when they were much less popular and really liked it a lot. We have had one or more at all times ever since.
I do this several times a year, have done it for years, and I have had no complaints from any buyer ever. I have even had a few repeat customers.
Most of my buyers are parents buying a cool but not overly expensive car for their high school kid or a young adult who knows nothing but wants to restore something while being able to drive it.
I wrote this out because my 16 year old and his friend have found a car they want to buy together and flip for a profit this summer. They want to make the same money that they could make flipping burgers when all is said and done but have more "flipping" fun. I give them a 75% chance of success.
I have more odds and ends than I will ever use so I will sell them (not give them) stuff fairly cheap. They have already bought a running 72 coupe parts car for 250 bucks. By the end of this school year they have to come up with 1500.00 each to buy a complete but not running 71 Mach and still have a little seed money left over to get started. They are pretty much on plan so far at this point.
They have a business plan.
They have a bank account just for the project.
They will be able to split any cost at the time they are incurred or they will wait until both have the money.
My tools are not your tools unless I say so.
My parts are not your parts - they are for sale very cheap.
I will set the selling price of the car when it is done.
If one of you wants to keep it then you will buy it for the selling price and split the profits as planned.
If you both want to keep it then a coin toss will decide.
I am the final dispute resolution judge, jury, and executioner.
I am now going to print this out and give it to my son and his friend.
- Paul
So assuming it is exactly like he says it is.
Show up with cash and buy the car for 2K or less.
Get ALL of the parts and put it back together enough to see if it starts, runs, drives, stops, with a minimum of cost using as much of my used parts as possible.
Take the extra parts that I have collected over the years and spruce up what looks bad or replace what is broken/missing
Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean, Clean...........
Take lots of pictures......... Make an album of before and after pics.
Make a punch list of everything that is bad on the car.
Remove anything that is bad but is not being replaced such as a headliner.
Hide nothing.
Pull all of the trim and the fender bolts
If the exterior sheet metal does not need a lot of filler then seal it, fill the holes and scuff and paint it all one normal pleasant color.
If the sheet metal rust is more typical then knock out the big crud, rust treat it, and primer it all one color.
Re install all of the trim and the rattle can painted dark grey fender bolts.
(I hate painted over fender bolts)
Make under the hood look clean and that the engine is painted with presentable belts and hoses, rebuilt 600 cfm carb (or the rebuilt original 2V) all sitting under a nice chrome air cleaner. Detail, Detail, Detail......
Polish the old aftermarket wheels that are always on a car bought like this or put 14 inch steel wheels and stock hubcaps back on the car (I have whole stacks of them).
Make sure all 5 of the tires match. Safe used ones are always available from local tire salvage companies usually with 50% or more of the tread left on them and a good DOT number.
You now have a safe to drive car, all one color, and most importantly clean if not restored inside and out.
Regardless of temptation, when selling the car show the buyer the album, the punch list, and explain that the paint job or primer job is just to slow down the rust and it needs to be totally redone. Show them all of your receipts. Point out every single flaw and hide nothing.
I can do all of the work myself and typically only do this on 71 - 73 Mustangs. I have 20 plus years of collected parts for these specific cars.
My shop has a lift and I only want to make enough money to fund my personal projects.
It has worked well for me. I have a "car account" that has enough in it for me to do what I want. I bought a brand new 2003 Cobra with my car account. Fun! (bought a 61 HI-PO Starliner that year for 6k and sold it for 30K with little additional $ in it - results not typical)
I am currently working on a 73 convert that has every option except 4V or ram air. This is a solid car and is a keeper for my wife and I. There is enough currently in the car account to fund a very high end restoration.
If the craigslist car is nasty I leave my number and ask them to call me if it does not sell. I have had more than one person call me back and tell me to just come get it.
Why 71 - 73 Mustangs? I got one when they were much less popular and really liked it a lot. We have had one or more at all times ever since.
I do this several times a year, have done it for years, and I have had no complaints from any buyer ever. I have even had a few repeat customers.
Most of my buyers are parents buying a cool but not overly expensive car for their high school kid or a young adult who knows nothing but wants to restore something while being able to drive it.
I wrote this out because my 16 year old and his friend have found a car they want to buy together and flip for a profit this summer. They want to make the same money that they could make flipping burgers when all is said and done but have more "flipping" fun. I give them a 75% chance of success.
I have more odds and ends than I will ever use so I will sell them (not give them) stuff fairly cheap. They have already bought a running 72 coupe parts car for 250 bucks. By the end of this school year they have to come up with 1500.00 each to buy a complete but not running 71 Mach and still have a little seed money left over to get started. They are pretty much on plan so far at this point.
They have a business plan.
They have a bank account just for the project.
They will be able to split any cost at the time they are incurred or they will wait until both have the money.
My tools are not your tools unless I say so.
My parts are not your parts - they are for sale very cheap.
I will set the selling price of the car when it is done.
If one of you wants to keep it then you will buy it for the selling price and split the profits as planned.
If you both want to keep it then a coin toss will decide.
I am the final dispute resolution judge, jury, and executioner.
I am now going to print this out and give it to my son and his friend.
- Paul
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