73 Mach 1 Question

[Revrabb05]

Hello ladies and gentlemen this is my first post on this forum. I'm here to seek advice from you more experienced enthusiasts. I want to rebuild a 73 mach 1, however, I don't know much about cars in general. I know someone that can help me on the mechanical side, but I don't know of anyone to help me with body work. I would like to learn myself, however, it would most likely have to be self taught as I work full time as an engineer. Do you veterans have advice as to the best way to learn? Also I have found a mach 1 that is in rough shape for around $1500( see attached photos). Do you guys think this is a fair price for this car?

 

[MechEng]

Welcome to the forum! I'm by no means a veteran but I'm in the midst of restoring a 73 Mach 1 myself. I also happen to work as a full time engineer and have just recently started the learning process of doing my own body work. My suggestion would be to just get some books that cover the basics and then start getting your hands dirty! Best way to learn is by doing it yourself and learning from failures or mistakes.

Now as to that car, seems like it has a lot of rust from the pictures. Can you tell is anything else about it? Is the motor free? The paint on the hood is not original.

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[Revrabb05]

Welcome to the forum! I'm by no means a veteran but I'm in the midst of restoring a 73 Mach 1 myself. I also happen to work as a full time engineer and have just recently started the learning process of doing my own body work. My suggestion would be to just get some books that cover the basics and then start getting your hands dirty! Best way to learn is by doing it yourself and learning from failures or mistakes.

Now as to that car, seems like it has a lot of rust from the pictures. Can you tell is anything else about it? Is the motor free? The paint on the hood is not original.

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Hello MechEng! I'm actually a mechanical engineer my self! It's nice to meet you! Well this is what the gentleman posted on craigslist: "73 mach 1 restorable extra parts 351 cleveland auto,air magnum 500s." I made contact with him, and he said that he has been turning the engine over by hand because he misplaced the key. So I am not quite sure how mechanically sound the vehicle is. The car is around 4 hours from where I live, so I was hoping to get a few opinions before I made the trip. Just out of curiosity how did you know the the paint wasn't original. Thanks!

 

[MechEng]

Hello MechEng! I'm actually a mechanical engineer my self! It's nice to meet you! Well this is what the gentleman posted on craigslist: "73 mach 1 restorable extra parts 351 cleveland auto,air magnum 500s." I made contact with him, and he said that he has been turning the engine over by hand because he misplaced the key. So I am not quite sure how mechanically sound the vehicle is. The car is around 4 hours from where I live, so I was hoping to get a few opinions before I made the trip. Just out of curiosity how did you know the the paint wasn't original. Thanks!

There's two things that point to the hood paint not being original, Number 1 is the fact that it doesn't match the lines of what a Tu-Tone paint job should look like. Number 2 is that if it was original paint, the hood should have the Twist Lock Hood Pins, which it doesn't.

Here's a picture of my car (same color) showing what the hood should look like if it's correct

There's some common rust areas that you'd want knowledge about, torque boxes, frame rails, trunk, floor, front fenders, if you search around you'll find lots of posts here of people judging worthyness of cars.

You can also post up the location of the car, another forum member may be close to it and be willing to go take a look at the car for you to give you a better bit of insight!

 

[Revrabb05]

Alright cool. Thank you for the heads up. I'll try to look around and see if I can't gain some insight off other peoples posts. It's in the northeastern corner of Mississippi an hour south of Jackson, TN. Is there anyone in that general area that might be willing to take a look?

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[Jeff73Mach1]

There are better candidates for restoration. Starting with a 1500 rust bucket, you will spend at least a year if not two or three on rebuilding the body and replacing all the rusted metal. This is not for the beginner. Find a 4-5000 car with maybe just cosmetic or possibly drivetrain problems. Good torque boxes, cowl, and inner wheelhouses will save you lots of time and money.

For a quick idea, look at the cost of doors-a replacement door will cost you $500.00 minimum for a clean, used replacement if such a thing were actually available. repro ones just came out and are going to be more than that.

Finding a car with two good doors saves you over a grand and weeks worth of work.

fenders and hoods are easy to replace, but not all sheetmetal is of the same quality. spend your money wisely here and talk to folks about their experiences with specific brands.

 

[MechEng]

Took a look at the pictures some more, here's some comments:

It's an AC car, you can see the expansion valve in one of the firewall pictures, but the entire system is missing, so something to think about.

The shock tower braces are missing.

The ignition coil is in a non-stock location (Should be on the left side of the engine IIRC)

The picture that shows the center cluster shows that the console is gone, and that's the steering column shown laying there as well, so he should be able to throw a battery in it and turn it over just fine without a key (He can move the ignition switch manually)

The vapor recovery system is also missing, though you can see the return fuel line is still there. I'd be a little wary of that engine, seems like someones done some work to it.

 

[will e]

That's a little much to take on if you don't know much about cars in general and don't have body work experience. My concern is the time it will take and you may lose interest. I would spend a little more on something runs and with a body that might need some work but not that rusted. In the end you will be money ahead.

Welcome to the board! Keep an eye out on some of th CL postings folks copy. What part of the country are you in?

 

[Revrabb05]

Thanks guys for all your advice! I will have to keep my eyes open for something in better condition. I've just started working so I'm trying to keep it under $5k. Thank for the welcome will e! I will keep checking those postings for sure! I'm from Tennessee, so if there is anyone who is looking to make a sale just shoot me a message.

 

[caspianwendell]

Welcome to the forum. My opinion is that you find a better car, replacing rusted sheet metal is not an easy task and requires a lot of knowledge, and skill.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

there are several of us in the Nashville Clarksville Murfreesboro area and I know there are a few in the Memphis area that are very knowledgeable too.

5 K might get you a decent running project car that you could drive and restore.

It is worth watching Craigslist. If you are close by, I'd be willing to give you an occasional hand.

 

[Revrabb05]

Welcome to the forum. My opinion is that you find a better car, replacing rusted sheet metal is not an easy task and requires a lot of knowledge, and skill.

Thank you Caspian! I appreciate your advice I will keep searching for sure. I'm glad you guys steered me away from it. The 73 Mach 1 is a dream car for me, so it is certainly something I wanna do right.

there are several of us in the Nashville Clarksville Murfreesboro area and I know there are a few in the Memphis area that are very knowledgeable too.

5 K might get you a decent running project car that you could drive and restore.

It is worth watching Craigslist. If you are close by, I'd be willing to give you an occasional hand.

Thanks Jeff I really appreciate the offer! I'm in the Nashville area myself. It would be great to get some good solid advice from people who have the experience and willingness to share.

 

[Don65Stang]

Welcome from coastal Alabama! Drop a pin on our member map under the fun stuff tab at the top of the page.

I'd pass on that car and buy the best car you can find for the $5000. 5k can get you a nice car with 5000 times less headache.

BTW, I'm a CE.

 

[MechEng]

For reference my car is a 5k car (This is a California 5k car, I feel like we overpay for everything) and it would be driveable right now if I wasn't in the middle of rust repair. You should be able to find something MUCH better for that much cash.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Nashville area

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4340645159.html

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4341790912.html

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4342014312.html

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4339994460.html

Memphis area

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/4257298569.html

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/4242318587.html

If you want to come work on my car with me sometime, just to see if this is your cup of tea, I'd be glad to have an extra pair of hands some evening.

Then again I am an attorney, so I couldn't possibly know what I am doing. I'll send you my phone number

 

[Revrabb05]

Thanks for the welcome and the advice Don! Its nice to meet fellow engineers. Thanks for the links Jeff. I'd love too come out sometime and learn a thing or two. Haha don't worry I won't hold it against you!

 

[Don65Stang]

I'm diggin' the 73 vert. If I were closer...

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4339994460.html

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

If I had more room I'd consider it-I wonder if they would like a motorcycle?

My house could become another Mustang Ranch

 

[jbojo]

Welcome from TriCities WA.

-jbojo