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73 mustang hood twist locks sold!

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87fox72mach

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1995 firebird rebuilt motor 5 spd dail driver
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1972 mach 1 project
these are original twist locks off a 73 need re chrome these are the twist lock dials and the buckets the sit in on the hood. 40 shipped to your door

 
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Aren't these still available original-tooling from the original supplier?

 
Aren't these still available original-tooling from the original supplier?
Yes - have bought a complete set from Don waiting for their application on my hood...
Tim thank you

Don



I installed a new set from Don and i am very satisfied with the quality.

Thanks Don ::thumb::
Eddy thank you

Don

 
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To install the hood pins, don't make a too-common mistake and drill a 3" hole for the pin cups. 3" is ever so slightly too small...the top sheetmetal of the hood will distort as you tighten down the cup. Look around on the 'net at several cars and you will clearly see what I mean.

The hole needs to be 3 1/16", or maybe even 3 1/8" (can't remember which...) diameter for the cups to fit correctly.

 
To install the hood pins, don't make a too-common mistake and drill a 3" hole for the pin cups. 3" is ever so slightly too small...the top sheetmetal of the hood will distort as you tighten down the cup. Look around on the 'net at several cars and you will clearly see what I mean.

The hole needs to be 3 1/16", or maybe even 3 1/8" (can't remember which...) diameter for the cups to fit correctly.
Hi Kit,

i understand what you are saying here in a way, but what is exactly going on to cause that sheet metal to distort, in relation to the correct hole diameter?

Greg.:)

 
As you tighten the brackets on the underside of the hood to pull the cup down into place, if the hole in the upper sheetmetal is not big enough for the cup to seat fully in the hole, it will pull the sheetmetal downward until the cup itself seats agianst the bottom section of sheet metal. The cup and the mounting bracket actually sandwich around the bottom layer of sheet metal to hold them in place...the upper layer of sheetmetal provides very little (if any) actual support to the cup.

It is far easier to understand if you are looking at it than trying to explain it with words only...

 
To install the hood pins, don't make a too-common mistake and drill a 3" hole for the pin cups. 3" is ever so slightly too small...the top sheetmetal of the hood will distort as you tighten down the cup. Look around on the 'net at several cars and you will clearly see what I mean.

The hole needs to be 3 1/16", or maybe even 3 1/8" (can't remember which...) diameter for the cups to fit correctly.
Hi Kit,

i understand what you are saying here in a way, but what is exactly going on to cause that sheet metal to distort, in relation to the correct hole diameter?

Greg.:)
That's very interesting, Kit, because I am a few weeks away before cutting! To what should I pay attention? I have seen some of the distorted hoods out there on one or another car ad in the www in the past and just wondered why did that people not noticed that when installing...

Tim



As you tighten the brackets on the underside of the hood to pull the cup down into place, if the hole in the upper sheetmetal is not big enough for the cup to seat fully in the hole, it will pull the sheetmetal downward until the cup itself seats agianst the bottom section of sheet metal. The cup and the mounting bracket actually sandwich around the bottom latyer of sheetmetal to hold them in place...the upper layer of sheetmetal provides very little (if any) actual support to the cup.

It is far easier to understand if you are looking at it than trying to explain it with words only...
Ok - you were faster... :blush:

Thanks :)

Tim

 
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I added mine and there is a write up on the forum. IIRC the hole size is a little smaller than 3" though the premise is correct that the lock must sit completely in the hole with no interference.

I have often considered reinstalling with a drop of gasket maker underneath the lip during the assembly process.

 
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